One of Spain’s great culinary traditionalists, three Michelin star chef Santi Santamaria, the advocate of contemporary Catalan cuisine in traditional Catalan style, recently moved across the seas to Dubai’s Atlantis The Palm, the resort on the manmade island of Palm Jumeirah that has captured the imagination of travellers to the Middle East. And nowhere is the wonder of underwater décor more breathtaking that at Santamaria’s restaurant, Ossiano, which recreates an under-the-sea experience with real sharks and other fish swimming around the manmade marine habitat.

This is indeed a far cry from his flagship Can Fabes Restaurant + Relais & Chateau, some miles out of Barcelona, where Angel and Santi Santamaria set up a restaurant in an ancient family home. Here the produce is fresh and local and worked into gourmet meals of distinction where classicism and tradition are recreated. Produce and people are the guiding lights of Can Fabes and the seasonal products come from the surroundings – fish from Blanes; mushrooms and lamb from the Montseny; truffles from Osona; rice from the Ebro Delta; game, Iberian ham and chicken from the Valdepalacios Estate. And for those who need a good rest after a great food experience there are rooms for the night as well.

Today, in Dubai, I climb down the sweeping stairway leading off the Grand Lobby to Ossiano and discover myself in a world of pearl and silver. Crystal chandeliers, pillars fashioned to represent enormous shells, a myriad fish and packed tables greet me. This is contemporary decadence in an Arabian Nights setting. But, the best is yet to come. In the form of a gourmet experience, exquisite portions of seafood, served in small portions in the modern style, in huge platters. The creations are well thought of, each bite a burst of flavour. The meal proves to be a heady culmination of taste and textures. Some complementing each other, others in tantalising contrast. All presented with simple and straightforward élan, with explanations from the goodlooking steward. “Cooks should not be preoccupied with creating sculptures or painting pictures with their work,” Santamaria has stated. “A table is not an art gallery.”

Replete and happy, I meet the chef himself, who is visiting his restaurant for a quick oversee. He is cute as a button and round as one. Just like a chef should be! Happy with food.... What results now is a near-surreal experience as I discover that the portly, smiling Santamaria speaks little English. I struggle with questions that are translated by his sous-chef who incidentally comes from Peru and who conveys his replies to me in strangely-intonated English. So here we are in Dubai – an Indian, a Peruvian and a Spaniard – all bound together by the love of food and happy as can be.

Excerpts from the interview, accented and delivered in typical staccato style....

What, in your life prepared you to take on the mantle of a super chef?
I don’t consider myself a super chef at all.

Did something in your childhood lead you to this?
This has been influenced from my family which inspired me to cook and share the food with everybody.

Why, in your opinion has Catalonia spawned so many chefs to be taken note of?
Catalonia is very dynamic, creative and has very strong cultural and historical roots, so we are always looking forward but we never forget the past.

How would you describe your personal culinary viewpoint?
It is very simple, not snobby and it is like driving a car, always forward but I need to keep looking at the rear-view mirror.

What is the philosophy that underlies your cuisine/recipes?
It is the philosophy of personal life, how to create dishes with seasonal products.

Why did you choose Dubai for your first restaurant outside Spain?
Actually, Atlantis chose me to come here from Spain.

You are known for your seasonal menus and local Catalan ingredients – how do you manage to maintain this in Dubai?
I find that Dubai is well connected and we can find very good suppliers. We are using a lot of products from Asia, Australia and Japan.

Is your repertoire here different?
Yes, Ossiano at Atlantis has personalised the menu to Arabic culture. Also we had a strong Arabic influence in Catalonia, as many years ago we have been invaded by them.

What have you added to/taken from the cuisine of the Middle East?
I took some milk based sauces, citrus flavours, mint and spices from the Middle East.

You have been known to challenge the concept of molecular cuisine. What is your biggest objection to it?
The chef normally doesn’t need to use chemical ingredients to trick the guests.

“One of the greatest challenges faced by todayís chefs is to avoid becoming the court jesters of the snobs and the posh,” you have noted. How do you manage to get in touch with the true lovers of traditional cuisine?
I like to cook for everyone who wants to enjoy a good, relaxed ambience, where they can find good harmony between cuisine and service.

Do you like Indian cuisine? Do you see yourself ever coming to India?
Yes I am very intrigued with Indian cuisine, which I think is very complex and I don’t really know most of the techniques. So I would like to understand more and it would be nice to try vegetarian food and rice dishes.

WHAT WE ATE.... SPECIALTIES OF THE CHEF....

Tapas: date puree with yoghurt
Seabass tartar with apple and Sevruga caviar
Foie gras ravioli with truffle
Marinated hamachi with lime dressing and tapioca pearls
Scallop with cauliflowers and white asparagus
Tasmanian salmon with cumin and baby zucchini
Blue lobster suquet Catalan style
Spanish grouper with roasted pigeon and black truffle sauce
Pre-dessert passion fruit pannacotta
Dessert: Torrija with vanilla ice cream

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