When my-sister-in-law and her American husband wanted to go somewhere cool, that none of us had been to before for a short break, it was Ananda that we chose. The decade-old, award-winning destination spa located 3100 ft above sea level in the scenic foothills of the Himalayas is a calming, comforting place immersed as it is in a 100-acre, undulating, tree-shaded, forest-fringed palace estate belonging to the Maharaja of Tehri Garhwhal. Its proximity to riverside Rishikesh and cloud-wrapped Mussoorie was an added attraction. The only disadvantage was having to wake at the crack of dawn to get to Delhi in time to catch the connecting flight to Dehradun’s tiny Jolly Grant airport.

Most of our fellow guests had spent time in Delhi and were bright-eyed and bushy-tailed. We cheered up on the hour-long scenic drive, however, and our spirits rose higher when we spotted our palatial, turreted and crenulated destination perched on the crest of a hill.

Welcomed warmly with aarti and rudraksha beads, we were ushered into the elegant, uncluttered reception area for checking in and filling up the medical questionnaires. The welcome drink was a refreshing ginger-lemon infusion reminding us that this was a spa with a holistic approach to health and well-being.

A quick whizz around the Viceregal Tea Lounge, the Billiard Room and the Library on the other hand, gave us a glimpse of the splendour and magic of a bygone era for this was once the official residence of the ruler of this princely state during the summer months. Often, the conversion of a hotel or a stately home into a hotel or resort can sever the house from its past. This is not so at Ananda, which exudes a sense of history. The photographs scattered around are proof enough that it had many famous visitors well before it became an internationally acclaimed spa. Its regal past definitely adds to its allure and charm.

The Valley View Wing where we had chosen to stay was located some distance away from the palace so we were driven there by buggies. Our rooms were comfortable, understated and had thoughtful amenities such as magnifying mirrors and a choice of pillows. Their focal point was the windows that framed the magnificent view of the valley, the Ganga river and the misty mountains. They opened out into roomy balconies that were perfect for star gazing, sipping a drink or bird watching, for the coppice of sal trees that almost nudged our windows were a magnet for a variety of birds while a pair of peacocks were at home in the garden below. It was tempting to stay in our rooms watching their antics and soaking up the view which changed constantly in shade and tone as the sun played hide and seek with the clouds. Unfortunately, our packed schedules gave us little time for that. The picture windows in the bathroom meant one could gaze out at the view while soaking in an aromatic bath.

Despite the hotel being fairly full, all four of us were able to get appointments for the treatments we wanted at timings that suited us. The 24000-square-foot, gleaming marble spa with its imposing central atrium offers a unique blend of therapeutic treatments based on traditional Indian practices of Ayuruveda, yoga and meditation. The spa also offers the latest European and Thai treatments to purify the body and sooth the senses. We had been sent the information on the treatments earlier, but none of us had had the time to study it. I opted for an aromatherapy massage on our first afternoon. The soft glow of candles, the refreshing fragrance that permeated the room, the greenery at the window and the soothing music instantly eased my exhaustion. My feet were placed in a vessel filled with warm water and scattered with rose petals. After a brief soak, they were washed gently in a ritual that demonstrates the ancient Indian saying ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ that means the guest is God.

The therapist applied a nourishing blend of warmed, specially blended, fragrant oil to my skin using lymphatic and pressure point massage techniques and located tension knots I didn’t know I had.

For the next hour I switched off completely and almost fell asleep! At the end of the massage, I felt totally refreshed and energised. Even the bags under my eyes had vanished.

Later, I set off to explore the grounds before the sun set. Many of the other residents were also strolling around, most of them attired in the off-white pyjamas provided for our use. It was a surreal scene in the honey coloured light of early evening. The grounds are extensive and a delightful mix of formal and informal scattered with all kinds of trees. Jacaranda, Himalayan long-eaved pine (chir), bottle brush, monkey puzzle, deodar, weeping willow and clumps of golden bamboo are the few I recognised. Meandering pathways paved with smooth stones cut across the grass to the amphitheatre, the pavilion (both used for yoga), the water course and sitting areas. It was wonderful to see the sky turn every colour of the rainbow before deepening to ebony from a bench with a bewitching view of the valley. Almost immediately the lights of Rishikesh began to glimmer and twinkle. It’s moments such as these that make a spell at a destination spa so special and the polar opposite of a session at an urban one.

Food is another factor that makes or breaks a stay at a spa. At Ananda, it enhanced our stay. We had most of our meals at the aptly-named Tree Top Deck in spite of several other dining options because it is in the open air but well shaded by sal trees, has a marvellous view and was delightfully breezy at that time of the year. It encircles the main restaurant that specialises in Ananda Rejuvenation Cuisine: light and healthy, macrobiotic, dosha (body type)-specific Ayuruvedic, European, Oriental and Indian favourites to suit individual palates.

The word deprivation does not figure on their menus. Each meal was like a fine- dining experience. Though there were many traditional favourites, other dishes were unusual, inventive, attractively presented and utterly delicious. The carnivores among us were happy with the wide selection of meat and fish. The vegetarian dishes we sampled were as satisfying. The desserts too were lush and light. The wine list was extensive although we preferred the fresh juice. There was a generous selection of teas and coffees.

Since the ambience was so congenial, the guests exchanged pleasantries at every opportunity. There was a large group from Mumbai, several of whom are often on Page 3, a couple of well-known fashion designers, a gallery owner, a maharani with her family, several groups from Delhi, an NRI family of four from the USA who were there for the Tranquility Programme and a French couple who had come there to relax after touring India for three weeks. One couple came there regularly from the USA for the Detox Programme. They told us that the Ganga aarti was special.

We therefore spent one afternoon exploring Rishikesh and stayed on for the aarti which takes place daily at sunset on the banks of the holy river. It is a picturesque city linked by the two suspension bridges known as the Lakshman Jhula and the Ram Jhula and packed with ashrams, dharamsalas and shops selling spiritual books, curios and souvenirs. It is the aarti, though, that’s indelibly etched in my mind. It is a vivid spectacle, the quintessentially Indian scene that draws scores of visitors to these shores. Sitting squashed in a corner into which we had been pushed by the surging crowds we had an excellent view of the huge white Shiva statue, the holy fire, the rushing river and the entire ceremony. The singing of the bhajans by disciples attired in saffron robes, the mingling scent of hot ghee, incense and camphor, the swaying of the devotees, the vigorous twirling of glowing lamps and the thousands of smaller diyas reflected in the swirling water made me feel we had strayed onto a Bollywood set. I didn’t experience a sense of peace perhaps because I was petrified that the lamp frenziedly wielded by an enthusiastic neighbour would singe my hair or set fire to my clothes!

Put on the global map by the Beatles in the ’60s and known as the yoga capital of the world, Rishikesh is where thrill seekers go white water rafting nowadays.

We were able to fit in treatments and yoga sessions daily into our schedules in spite of the sightseeing we did, and my sister-in-law, who has struggled with yoga in a sweaty gym, was thrilled to practise these ancient poses in the open-air amphitheatre. I had a Deep Tissue Massage and found it extremely relaxing. Since my hair was dry and dehydrated I squeezed in an Aromatherapy Hot Oil massage and actually went to dinner with oil in my hair!

I have been disappointed by highly praised spas and resorts so often, that going to Ananda for me was like finding the Holy Grail and living to tell the tale.

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