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The Scent Of Scampi
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| Text by Roopa Barua and Photographs by Nilesh Acharekar | |||||||||
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Published: Volume 18, Issue 6, June, 2010
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Scampi fresh off the docks combined with lush mangoes and rock salt. ROOPA BARUA discovers two distinct culinary traditions as she watches The Hyatt Regency’s Chef Mahesh Kini and Chef Alessio Banchero transform scampi in their own distinctive styles
A heady mix of tart green mangoes and wickedly-crustaceous scampi. Add to it the elements of lush basil, shimmery green pepper and edgy rock salt. All five ingredients sit in glass bowls at the granite counters of the uber-chic nightspot – the Stax Restaurant at The Hyatt Regency, Mumbai. These have been laid out by Chef Mahesh Kini, Executive Sous Chef at the Hyatt Regency, Mumbai, as part of a scampi cook-off between him and Chef Alessio Banchero, chef de cuisine, Stax Restaurant. Our request for the chefs was to combine these five seemingly disparate elements into an Italian and Indian entrée. Scampi, a type of lobster, is prized in gourmet eateries across the Western hemisphere. The meat is delicate, more fragile and sweeter than a lobster, and chefs love to play with its subtle flavours. Chef Banchero has started slicing the meat for a Carpaccio – the raw sliced meat entrée infused with complementing herbs and oil. The Carpaccio technique is commonly used in beef and tuna, two meats that are very robust and hearty compared to the flaky scampi. I ask him why he is using this technique on a meat that is so different. “The scampi has been frozen overnight. When I slice it thin, it will look almost transparent. It will complement the mangoes and basil for a light healthy salad. Less is more,” he adds with, a grin. Luminous slices of scampi with raw and ripe mangoes drizzled with a light vinaigrette. I am ready for the adventure. Chef Kini is slicing the scampi into bite-sized pieces. “Food is not about impressing people. It is about making them comfortable,” he comments. With a degree in Hotel Management from IHM, Ahmedabad, he has ascended fairly quickly to join the ranks of seasoned Indian chefs. With roots firmly planted in traditional Indian cuisine, he believes entirely in the notion of food comforting the soul. He is getting ready for his Kadaiwale Tulsi Ki Scampi – a scampi sauté Indian style with basil. The esoteric scampi is bathed in a garlic-ginger paste, lightly pan fried and tossed with a combination of dry roasted chilli, cumin, coriander, fennel and ajwain powders. It is then finished off with a sprinkling of fresh basil and lemon juice. From Verona in Italy to Zefferino Ristorante at the Venetian, Las Vegas, Chef Banchero has certainly tickled a jet set clientele’s taste buds with his fresh and healthy renditions of classic Italian cooking. After attending culinary school in Genova, he worked at Ristorante la Terrazza at Novotel, Ristorante II Veliero, and Zeffirino in both Genova and Las Vegas, where he mastered the art of bringing contemporary lightness to the art of hearty Italian cooking. He starts piling the thin transparent layers of scampi on a platter. Raw and ripe mangoes diced into small pieces are liberally sprinkled on the top, along with green peppercorns and basil. He then finishes the dish with a drizzle of a fresh tomato and mango compote. The stage is set and the gleaming silverware is placed on the table. Chef Kini and Chef Banchero now present us with their creations. The Scampi Carpaccio is layer upon layer of pure lychee-like translucence, the orange and green diced mango gleaming with jewel-like tones on the bed of scampi. The meat is soft and mildly sweet. While the ripe mangoes and the tomato compote complement the sweetness, the green mangoes and rock salt give it an edge making it a truly versatile light summer salad packed with all of nature’s freshness. The Kadaiwale Tulsi Ki Scampi is a gentle study of the flaky scampi meat infused with the nurturing aromas of roasted and powdered Indian spices. The meat is very softly nudged by the spices to give it a feeling of home style cuisine, the raw mango chutney bringing in inevitable memories of the long hazy summer days spent digging into grandmother’s jars of kairi pickles. Both fresh and healthy, the Scampi Carpaccio is strict haute cuisine with an unbearable lightness of being while the Kadaiwale Tulsi ki Scampi is ubiquitous home style food. Scampi for the heart and soul, truly. Tandoori Tulsi Scampi
To serve: Method Kadaiwale Tulsi Ki Scampi
Method Carpaccio Di Scampi
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