Sabyasachi (LFW) Supreme aesthete Notes: Spanish hippie with a more apparent sexiness than his usual shows. Recognisable ethnic touches, but less obviously Indian. Immense product range. A never-go-wrong sensibility. But what has progressed? Wow points: Lovely colour palette (especially flesh pink) and blocking. Mind-boggling variety in detailing. The styling. Checks. Peek-a-boo bras. Future: One non-vintage looking collection would be good to see. Sabya going mental would be even better.
	Cue by Rohit Gandhi & Rahul Khanna (WIFW) The fabricators Notes: Sculpting different weights of fabric into jagged geometric panels or stiff, swirling pleats, the duo remarkably balances wearability with adventure. Super sharp and edgy. Impeccably tailored and finished. But the result is somewhat Pratap meets Vandevorst. The face masks are an unnecessary attempt to create a cult image. Wow points: The jackets – very racy! Effective use of geometry. A part gold sequin, part black dress. An ink-blue half jacket dress. Tapered trousers. Future: Retain their ethos along with experimentation; avoid obvious overlaps with contemporaries.
	Kallol Datta 1955 (LFW) Deep impact-or Notes: In addition to the trademark circular patterns (yet again), there are other, straighter styles, almost leaning towards tailoring. Great layering of pieces. Well edited collection with sub-ranges divided by colour and print. Datta has mastered the presentation of humorously morbid themes. Wow points: Death/crime inspired prints. Cargo trousers. A bright teal sari teamed with bomber. The ‘cool’ quotient in every piece. Future: Not run around in ‘circles’. Explore other shapes, like square, triangle, trapezium....
	Atsu (WIFW) Prêt-à-poet Notes: Simple, classy styles where quality tailoring is apparent. Slouchy masculinity with some casually prim feminine numbers are easy to wear and safely chic options. Reminiscent of Chloé during Phoebe Philo’s time. The dramatic inserts of voluminous jackets prevent the range from getting boring, which it sometimes leans towards. Wow points: The woolly mammoth jackets. The appearance of golden yellow with grey. Light trenches. Red and silver long shirt-dresses. The overall simplicity that is actually quite detailed. Future: Lift up pretty-chic to something breathtakingly memorable.
	Morphe by Amit Aggarwal (WIFW) Sartorial surgeon Notes: Rock chick meets Grecian warrior princess. Aggarwal’s expert manipulation of fabric to dance to his tune – however complex it might be – is admirable. He takes adventure a step further this second runway season and presents a very complex range, in a varied fabric palette. There is a tendency towards overt randomness, which needs to be restrained. Wow points: Twisted fabric used to create stiff rope-tubes on dresses. Textured leather ‘waves’ and slashed panels. Well placed hints of teal. The clutch purses. Future: Not clutter, but start to clean.
	Rishta by Arjun (WIFW) Master architect Notes: Austere, severe, stern, strict, intimidating. Arjun Saluja’s creations require giant personalities, else the garments will swallow one whole. Spectacular construction and finish. Unmistakably winter – this is not a fence-sitter range. Unfailing aesthetics. But Saluja had already mastered all this previously; what next? Due to the restricted colour and fabric boards, it gets rather monotonous. Wow points: The superb tailoring of every piece. Oversized curving cuffs on a mocha dress. Trousers with ruffle-style side flaps. Waistcoats. Future: So much – colours, fabrics, overall. What if Rishta goes happy?
	Sanchita (WIFW) Cool cucumber Notes: She has mastered the art of effortlessness, with a mix of spunky-bohemian, oversized grunge and glam girl. Urban to resort, with some winter layering elements. The apparent simplicity has a dash of quirk. A couple of drapey dresses look a little tacky polyester-y. Comfort rules, but very stylishly. Wow points: Large triangular leather patchwork. Mirrored leggings. Slouchy boots. The styling, with oversized earrings and puffed-up braids. Future: Avoid a satin overdose. It is highly déjà vu.
	Abraham & Thakore (WIFW) Stress reliever Notes: A great return, after a long hiatus off the runways. Crisp, soothing and uncluttered – the perfect blend of sharpness and softness. Almost entirely monochrome, with bronze making an occasional appearance. Simplicity teeters on the verge of boring, but is gallantly rescued by some great styling. Wow points: The sari drapes and combinations with jackets and belts. Block heeled mojris. Bicycle motifs in embroideries and appliqués. The effortless appeal of every look. Sudden colour splashes in the final two outfits. Future: Showcase a few more seasons in succession without another disappearing act.
	NEXT

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