All art flows from the backwaters it seems. If the legends Raja Ravi Varma, MV Devan, CN Karunakaran, Kanayi Kunhiraman and in more recent years, Yusuf Arakkal, Bose Krishnamachari, Surendran Nair, NN Rimzon, Riyaz Komu, Shibu Natesan (to mention just a few) have more than one thing in common, it’s their origin – all hail from God’s own country. This could be attributed to coincidence; an unusually dense, geographically guided patronage; or, like Usha Gawde of Sakshi Art Gallery figures (of the Malayalee artists), “…they are all very curious, well versed and constantly tuned into what’s happening in the world, this must percolate into their thinking. Art reflects this background of insight.” Whatever the reason, Kerala has created and continues to create art that consistently excels, evolves, excites, appeases and finds its way to the upper echelons of the national and international art circuit.

“Kochi can be considered ‘the hub’ for the overall Kerala art scene, which is still in its infancy,” shares Anoop Skaria of Kashi Art Gallery and Kashi Art Café, both amongst the finer venues of good contemporary art in the coastal town. A man with a clear and rather precise understanding of the art market, when asked to comment about the current style of art in the city, he explains, “Today the trend is moving away from ‘classical’ art forms into video, sophisticated multimedia installations and sculptures. That does not mean traditional painting, sculpture and photography will disappear, but that art being so market driven, or should I say ‘marketing driven’, following the trend versus staying true to your intuitions as an artist will be tougher for individuals to do.” Anoop also seems to understand the need for the changing ‘face’ of the art market which he has translated into the Kashi Art Café. As the name establishes, it is a Kerala-style cottage with a gallery in the fore and a courtyard café tucked in the back serving up a whirlwind of culinary treats for the weary art traveller.

Though comparatively nascent, the gallery culture in Kochi is refreshingly unpretentious and laid-back. The city plays host to a sizeable collection of contemporary art galleries where you find cutting-edge art by virtually unknown artists, and also have the opportunity to view and buy a TV Santhosh, Ratheesh T or Bose Krishnamachari on their home turf. Galleries like Chaithanya Art Gallery, Kashi Art Gallery, Gallery OED (Open Eyed Dreams), Durbar Hall and Gallery Ishka amongst others, have given local art a fantastic forum, equally allowing amateurs and professionals ample opportunity to display their works; thus creating a market for art lovers and buyers on every level.

Walk into Chaithanya Art Gallery, buried in the heart of Ernakulam and you will be greeted by the owners, Sathya and Geetha Sai. The couple, whose enthusiasm, simplicity and love of art is evident in every aspect of their tremendously challenging business, has an inherently positive understanding and vision of the local art market. “There is a tendency for the newcomer to hike the price of their works, in lieu of those of well-known artists. It is not a good trend. For example, if a student prices his work at one lakh rupees, after five years by how many percent will he increase it?” they opine. The no-nonsense gallery is a treasure trove of art. The depot, a side room to the main gallery itself, boasts a collection far more abundant than is immediately obvious. Sai happily allows customers to go through the works, at their own pace and in their own time. Though most polite and accommodating, Sai explains that the Kochi art market was severely affected by the recent recession: “Buyers were afraid to buy art works because most buyers are investors. Despite this tight situation, we noticed that artists were not ready to lower their prices. With buyers continuing to bargain, galleries are compelled to bear the losses. Some galleries in the North have closed down and others are forced to postpone shows. But in Kochi, three galleries – Chaithanya, Kashi and OED – have faced this situation bravely and held their own. At times like these, artists must be ready to bear the brunt of receiving lower prices as well; only then will there be a movement of work. Only then can galleries survive.”

In addition to art changing hands at commercial galleries and through out-of-state sales, Kochi art has its own local breed of collectors as well. Eminent amongst them is BR Ajit. He has been collecting for over 25 years and has about 60 works of art which, mostly local, he has bought purely for pleasure, long before it was fashionable to do so.

Lower market values in combination with artists’ hopes of better universities, more facilities, brighter exposure and a booming market led to many of the now established artists to leave Kerala in the 80s and 90s; a trend which is still continues. “Kochi has a good audience but not a good enough market,” explains Sujith SN, a young and rather brilliant artist, originally from Kochi. Patronised and promoted by Dilip Narayan of Gallery OED, Sujith is currently in Mumbai doing a residency with Sakshi Art Gallery. Sujith believes that most art from Kerala tends to be politically charged narratives, coloured by world events.

Another young, promising artist, Pradeep PP, was born and brought up in Koovappady, a village near Kochi. “Its ritualism and tradition keep inspiring me,” he shares. “Through my paintings, I try to depict the deterioration of traditional life, the fast changing social epoch, and the loss of human values due to an overpowering invasion of modern/urban cultures.” He paints in a traditional Kerala-mural style, creating work that caters to the 21st century. Despite being in Mumbai and working as an assistant to TV Santhosh, he admits to not having much work come easily his way. Yet presently putting together a body of work which he knows will get him a solo showing soon, he remains inherently confident about his art: “The most important thing is the art itself.”

Though many artists moved out of Kochi, many other well-renowned artists like Rajan M Krishnan, C Bhagyanath and TR Upendranath have chosen to stay in the city. Nationally recognised and established, Upendranath creates uber-modern art and sculpture in experimental media. He travelled extensively, which he claims gave him the experience and freedom to become an artist. Upendranath has never undergone any formal training in art. “My works are the outcome of my personal search and questioning of the current world order and my rebellion against mainstream artistic movements. I often wonder about the want in me that made me an artist,” contemplates Upendranth, “Art is a way of life. When I started there was no art market in Kerala, yet I continued making art....”

Art in Kochi is more than new trends, famous artists and modern galleries. The budding metro continues to retain its older, more eclectic art venues – ‘bookshop-cum-art galleries’ and ‘local art corners’ still dot the city offering you the chance to stumble upon a steal of local, rustic, romantic, and landscape art. If the Chinese fishing nets of Fort Kochi don’t quite grip you, wander across the street and you are certain to run into a good old-fashioned ‘art shop’ replete with dusty books, a whirring table fan, pleasant, albeit not-too-well-informed help, and art like you ‘don’t find no more’.

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