Rajesh Pratap Singh (WIFW) Master at work Notes: From crisp casual to tailored dressy to rock chic – a wide variety of styles and fabrics is beautifully put together; the first and the last outfits are distinctly different, but well connected. This is what collection editing is about (minus a couple of unnecessary gowns). Wow points: Square-cut voluminous ‘handkerchief’ waistcoats. Jacket-dresses. Combination of laser cutting and crystal embellishment. Future: Continue the pursuit of excellence.
	Anamika Khanna (LFW and WIFW) Desi rock star Notes: The queen of Indo-punk-grunge continues to slash, shred, fray and puncture. Intricate, multi-technique textures balanced by a limited colour board. Ink stain ombré, meshy surfaces and digital prints are elements from previous collections in a new mix. The washed, tortured denim section is a tad reminiscent of Balmain, but much more detailed, with the classic Khanna touch. Wow points: Cobweb-like mesh jackets. Cutwork on washed denim. Presentation of lehengas with voluminous drapes. Future: Refrain from getting ‘too random’.
	Small Shop Jason Anshu (WIFW) Happy antidote Notes: Colour splashes, heart and lip prints, deflated balloon detailing, simplicity mixed with quirkiness. Fail-proof smiley makers. But the watercolour prints (whether different motifs or not) are a continuation from the last two seasons, and somewhat tiring. Almost like an extension of the last range and not a separate one. Wow points: Pyjamas with front flaps. The ‘odds and ends’ edging on garments. A square ‘bed sheet’ dress. Beautiful back details on dresses and gowns. Future: A change in the colour board and fabrics.
	Asish N Soni (WIFW) Subtle supremacist Notes: Detailed constructions and impeccable finishing. Simple, uncluttered presentation. A comprehensive range of separates. Subtly clever pleats, tucks, rolls and waves create understated luxury. A bit monotonous and nothing spectacularly individual. But masterfully tailored. Wow points: Single lapel, one shoulder dresses. Laser cut fabric discs in a ‘cogs and wheels’ embellishment. The fits. Future: Some variety in fabrics. A more ‘adventurously classic’ range, perhaps?
	Rishta by Arjun (LFW) Modern crusader Notes: A lighter step forward from Winter 2009. Softer constructions. More flow, addition of textural digital prints, a fresh shade of green. Some elements from past collections revisited. But the overall look (the sportswear-deconstructed-oriental layering), especially with similar colour stories, is a bit of déjà vu. Wow points: A nude satin multi flap dress, a grey multi sleeved dress, a green printed gown, lovely straight palazzo trousers. Complex constructions and detailing. Future: A different colour board.
	Pankaj & Nidhi (WIFW) Energy wave Notes: A Manish Arora-Rajesh Pratap Singh synthesis, but in a good way. Painstakingly corded patterns (aligned and matched, that too) and the literal translation of the Holographica theme perfectly showcase the skilled effort of the duo. Wow points: A purple quilted cutwork-effect dress. Square-hip shorts. The iridescent plates used for embellishment in symmetric patterns. Future: Perhaps, more variety within the collection, rather than combinations of the same techniques.
	Namrata Joshipura (WIFW) No-nonsense modernista Notes: Über-sharp, glamorous and wearable – Joshipura hardly ever goes wrong with her aesthetic. But somewhere, the label has not evolved beyond that. A great collection, with a super set of surface treatments and textures, but after satin, taffeta and fuss free, straight styles for ages, what next? Wow points: The laser lights at the start of the show – perfect. Satin and taffeta one shoulder flaps. ‘Shredded’ laser cutting. Giant pebble-like crystals. ‘Egg crate’ surfaces. ‘Razor-blade’ texture on sheer knits. Sleek clutch purses and bags. Future: Shapes, shapes, shapes.
	Anand Kabra (LFW) Sparkling meteorite Notes: Foray into full-on Indian zone, exploring embroideries. A diverse product range tackling Western casual prêt and dressy ethnic ensembles with equal élan. From shorts to heavy saris and lehengas, the collection offers everything. But this causes the first and second parts of the show to seem disconnected with each other. Almost like a deliberate showcasing of skills. Wow points: A cream sheer sharara with orange printed lining. A cream and gold kalidar with a Grecian pleated bodice and embroidered shoulders. Future: A clearer, sharper range with a stronger connect. A distinct Kabra trademark, which we are still unsure of.
	Neha Agarwal (LFW) Promising fresher Notes: The previous season’s Sabya/Anamika imprint is more or less gone. Nice colour story of taupe, bright pink and neon green, with block prints. Detailing like oversized patch pockets, quirky layering like shorts over shorts, the ethnic-sporty blend make for a fun show. Wow points: A black and white printed sack dress with taupe shirt. Future: Work on asserting a brand stamp.
	Kallol Datta 1955 (LFW) Black humorist Notes: A fresh colour story and some sharper shapes. Volume made to look clean is difficult, but Datta manages with mastery. However, if his last three collections are mixed together, they would blend into a single large range. The overall look, fabrics and some shapes are repetitive. Wow points: Cheeky prints – floral motifs that are actually roaches, hexagons that really are dragonflies, a basic bodice and skirt block, toilet sign derivations. ‘Bullet wound’ shibori. Future: More variety in fabrics and product range.
	My Village by Rimzim Dadu (LFW) The Machine Notes: Texture princess tackles sequins and metallic beads this time, in her signature style. There is an effort to create separates and placement embellishments instead of just overall. But shapes need attention. The straight, short, stiff dress saga continues with yet another sequel. Wow points: Extremely labour intensive surface treatments. Metallic ‘cage’ dresses. Cord mesh. Hole-punch texture. Individually burnt sequins! Future: Newer shapes.
	Morphe by Amit Aggarwal (WIFW) Future powerhouse Notes: An impressive runway debut with attention to shapes, textures and detailing alike. Commercially translatable to alternatively arty pieces. A few distinct inspirations from international collections, but undoubtedly skilled execution, tackling both drape and construction commendably. Wow points: Superfine pleated edging on collars, necklines and armholes. A beige silk dress with an angular, jutted hip. Laser cutting. Future: We are waiting for a second runway season.
	NEXT

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