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Le New Horizons
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| Text by Sohiny Das | |||||||||
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Published: Volume 17, Issue 10, October, 2009
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Founder of the online fashion trade portal Lenewblack, Vidya Narine chats with Sohiny Das about her adventurous career, the potential of virtual showcasing and her budding romance with Indian design
Her childhood desire of being in fashion took a temporary backseat as Narine enrolled for art courses at the Ecole du Louvre, Paris during her college years. But her attraction to fashion was rekindled upon graduation. “I discovered the anniversary book of the 10 years of ANDAM Fashion Awards,” she speaks in her whispery, French accented, extremely polite way, “and found gathered, all the designers who I’d always loved – Maison Martin Marghiela, Bless, Viktor & Rolf, Jeremy Scott and many more – the whole generation...who wrote fashion history since the late 1980s.” She met Nathalie Dufour, founder and director of the ANDAM Fashion Awards, who commissioned her for a project of collecting garments and archives for the Museum of Fashion in Paris. This meant meeting and interacting with many of the exceptional designers she had read about. It was “a dream come true”. A short stint as an assistant to an exhibition curator in New York later, Narine was back in Paris and collaborated with some people to start a fashion label named Surface to Air. Her partners were also organising a fair called Rendez-Vous. “They had just started the first edition and needed help,” she says. “I knew nothing about fashion fairs but was curious.” Gathering 15 young designers (“we were all of the same age, young and crazy”), they showcased collections independently during Paris Fashion Week. It was an exciting new venture, aimed “to show our brands in an environment we liked, with buyers we felt close to, surrounded by music and art that we loved”. The collaboration turned long-term, and four years later, Rendez-Vous Paris is an extremely noted event on the international fashion calendar, extending an arm to New York as well, showcasing collections by 500 designers, artists, photographers, musicians, publishers and graphic designers. Side by side, Narine also whet her appetite for varied adventures by working with names like APC, Jean Touitou, Jens Kaeumele and a Japanese chain of stores, jet-setting between Paris and Tokyo.
But Narine does not think that real fashion weeks may soon be replaced by virtual forums. “It is important to meet the whole industry and for buyers to meet new designers and touch and feel the collections, especially when one is starting,” she states. “Lenewblack is a good addition to shows and showrooms, a tool to make their buyers’ lives easier. Buyers know established brands by reputation or from previous seasons so it’s easy for them to order directly.” The site’s potential has just begun to be realised. A setup like this requires constant fresh feeds and for this, Narine likes to discover talents from across the globe. This means constant travel. “There is no work routine, and that’s what I like,” she smiles. “I attend the maximum number of fashion weeks and fairs to meet brands, buyers and organisers.” Milan, Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen, London, New York – it is a continuous whirlwind tour. But she likes the mobile life. Holidays have turned into exciting business trips. It was during a 2008 visit to Mumbai, that she met the Bombay Electric store owners Priya Kishore and Deepak Rajegowda. “Stepping into their store I understood that something was happening in Indian fashion. Something electric. Something I felt close to,” she says, poetically. “I saw a second generation, led by young and curious designers rich in an international culture and desires, and the experiments of the first generation.” She decided to tour the Indian fashion weeks in Mumbai and Delhi, where she met “many talented designers and saw their collections, and also fashion journalists, full of energy, who are building a critical history of fashion and creating debate”.
While “being attentive to the taste of clients and the evolution of the market” is imperative, her site reflects her personal taste too. She selects every brand on the portal herself, creating a varied offering from many countries. Her own dressing style is seemingly simple and minimalist, but interestingly detailed and layered, with an overall clean feel. “I like to mix young and established brands,” Narine tells us. “I am also crazy about shoes, like every woman,” she admits. She lists some of her favourites for apparel and footwear: Maison Martin Marghiela, Bless, Ann Deumulmeester, Pierre Hardy, Rodarte, Pauric Sweeney “and of course, our own brand Surface to Air”. Between designing, travelling and nourishing a growing venture, Narine’s work is cut out, requiring constant redevelopment and re-planning. The site is presently working on its ‘Press’ section, aiming to enable the media to view selected collections, videos and interviews online for entire seasons. Conscientiousness works all the way – there is also the ‘eco’ angle. “By working in a qualitative way and by saving all sorts of energy and trash, I hope Lenewblack helps fashion become more sustainable.” Subscribe to Verve Magazine or buy the Verve issue on stands now!
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