I have been on a mission to discover at least one new happening city a year. In my list of hot spots, some were reserved for last – Spanish cities being amongst them. Because I knew that once Spain works its charm, there is no going back. So, years before my planned visit to the country of Gaudi (I did not get to Barcelona eventually), when the Madrid art fair ARCO, chose India as their guest country, and my gallerist friend gave me an excuse to hitch my wagon to her travel itinerary, I could not resist. While the snow refused to thaw in the rest of Europe, one fine sunny almost balmy morning I found myself in a lovely little hotel room off the Gran Via in Madrid. Here are just some of the many fabulous things that came my way....

Loewe
When in Madrid, a pilgrimage to Loewe is a must. Situated in the heart of old-world Madrid in the Barrio de Salamanca, Loewe is Spain’s biggest luxury export. Its claim to fame started in 1846, something they are justifiably proud of. With designer Stuart Vevers at the helm, Loewe is about sharp silhouettes, fitted, lean, elegant and often in leather. Their trenches especially in the season’s black patent incarnation are giving others a run for their money. But my favourites are the accessories, after all, no other house is that synonymous with leather. Loewe’s first ever bag in its collection, the Amazona circa 1975 has been recreated this year in bright colours, indigo denim and a flash of red snakeskin and chunky hardware. And their fine strappy leather sandals add lovely dizziness to any outfit. If you’re after just a little souvenir of your trip, get their notebooks, covered in beautiful leather in delicious colours and myriad sizes, they are a perfect marriage of function and style.
(Calle Serrano 26, Ph: +34 915 77 6056 www.loewe.com)

Carolina Herrera
Perhaps every celeb worth their salt in the United States has been dressed by Mrs Herrera, but it is Spain where Mrs Herrera’s family came from and where her passions lie. Madrid is where daughter Carolina lives and works as the face and creative force behind the lifestyle brand CH Carolina Herrera. While mama Herrera’s designs westward remain screen siren classic, in Madrid, CH is really like the city – fun, sexy and flirtatious prêt-a-porter. Not far from Loewe at this mammoth flagship where the air is redolent with their signature scented candles, you will find everything from sunglasses, shoes, bags, baby carriages, the signature perfume CH along with chic suits, pretty dresses and girly tops. The men’s selection downstairs was all colour when I visited. Chinos in green, yellow, purple with loafers in equally painterly colours combined with sporty blazers.
(Calle Serrano 16 Ph: + 34917814380 www.carolinaherrera.com)

Pedro Garcia
As the world waxes lyrical about Spanish shoes, Pedro Garcia has become the hottest ticket. This cutsie label, nestled in a pedestrian street also in the Salamanca area, has pretty Madrileños queuing up, no matter what season, for their well made soles in signature frayed satin, that combine comfort with glamour. For summer a must have is a pair of their fushetts. Comfortable, flat, cork bed style sandals in lovely metallic colours – silver, gold, copper and slate with straps encrusted with crystals. They’ve been around for 10 years and each year the designers come up with fantastic new shades. But PG is not only about flats. You will see perfect heels often with the slightest hint of platform in slick black, gold, ecru, beige and champagne silk with rhinestones, pearl strands and sequins.
(Calle Jorge Juan 14, Callejon, local 3 Ph: +34 91 575 34 41 www.pedrogarcia.com)

Uterque
Love Zara but cannot be caught dead in it? Uterque is your answer! Owned by Zara but without shops all over the world selling identical merchandise, Uterque is credit crunch fashion at its best. Heavy on the bling, light on the wallet, the shop gets in people of all age groups trying to freshen up their wardrobe with mini hobos, clutches in gold, purple booties, suede jackets, flared jeans and just about every look that’s in.
(Calle Serrano 40 Ph: +34 915 75 4585 www.uterque.com)

Sita Murt
Barcelona is one of the cities that I really wanted to visit during this trip. But the closest I got was to Barcelonian designer Sita Murt’s eponymous label in Madrid. Flowy fabrics, fun lengths, pleats and ruches mostly in tones of black, grey and white. Whether in angora, silk or cotton the styles are often voluminous and roomy and just as things got predictable, Sita gave it details like a plunging back to keep it interesting. My style guide tells me that Barcelonians stay away from colour. As if to prove this wrong, the summer collection is full of turquoise, canary and fuchsia. Best worn with flats and strappy sandals.
(Calle Almirante 20, Ph: +34 91 522 08 65 www.sitamurt.com)

Le Faubourg
I remember the precise moment I entered Arnaud Maillard’s little gem of a boutique. There was passion and history on every hanger, from the electric blue first generation Fendi baguette to the cashmere Union Jack cushions from Fake London. Then I met him and he was understandably excited about getting in 30 Valentino vintage haute couture dresses. Arnaud is on the global travelista’s speed dial for cocktail dresses, evening gowns and other guilty pleasures – ’60s Lanvin, ’40s Maggy Rouff, Balenciaga Edition, Pierre Balmain haute couture and lots of Chanel from 1960s onwards. And a diva doesn’t stop with a dress, so Arnaud also stocks Gucci accessories, bags, suitcases and even trunks from the ’60s. This is also one of the rare places to stock a great collection of Hermès accessories from the ’40s to the ’70s including the Birkin, Kelly and Bolide. As expected there is a waiting list for the most wanted – the Hermès Constance and Birkin bags and the classic Chanel tweed vests and coats. Anyway whatever you come away with, be assured that it is a piece of history, the kind that every daughter dreams of mining from her mother’s wardrobe.
(Calle Almirante 8 Ph: +34 91 522 43 82 (best to call and make an appointment.)

Roberto Verino
Roberto Verino’s shop screams Spain! Black, white, red and lots of billowing silk and taffeta. I have to admit his styling is not one of my favourites. But if you get invited to one of the old world Madrid restaurants of the area, you will need a pretty dress, and while Verino will not make catwalk news, you can head here and find something wonderfully feminine and sophisticated in under 15 minutes.
(Calle Serrano 33 Ph: +34 914 260 475 www.robertoverino.es)

Mia Moll
Mia Moll stocks fashion at rock bottom prices and with a Lolita aesthetic that reminded me so much of Harajuku, Tokyo – polka dot dresses, metallic hobos, knee length socks and boots. Mia Moll has it all and the best plastic shoes in the world from Brazilian designer Melissa. Sounds queasy but Melissa has taken what could easily be relegated to rainy season wear to new waters. I bought a pretty gold and beige slipper that is good for the beach and even for dinner afterwards.
(Calle Augusto Figueroa 22 Ph: +34 91 523 42 90)

Castañer
Alpargatas are espadrilles originally worn only by peasants until Jack Nicholson and his Hollywood pals came in and bought 100s of pairs, and since then the humble espadrille, of which the most famous ones are made by Castañer, have become a summer staple for global fashionistas. Here they come in classic summery styles in all colours, with and without ankle straps and also wedges. They also do sandals, sling backs and canvas bags. Their boots for winter and their recent styles with crystal and satin are interesting takes on the tradition.
(Calle Almirante 24 Ph: +34 91 523 72 14 www.castaner.com)

Caligae
At a glance this outlet shoe store seems low on the fashion radar but look carefully at the miles of shoes displayed along the long pistachio green walls and you will find some real fantastic pairs at bargain prices. I zeroed in on a pair of distressed gold stiletto peep toes with pretty little ankle bow details and an oh so retro ink blue pair of ankle length suede boots. My style diva friend is a regular shopper and comes here when she is trying to find that perfect pair to match a tricky dress.
(Calle Augusto Figueroa 31 Ph: +34 91 532 30 84)

Manolo Blahnik
‘New shoes cure the blues’, heralds a little cushion in the entrance window. And a very attentive salesperson opens the door of this hushed shoe salon, where the most coveted stilettos on the planet are equal parts therapy and addiction. The shoe princesses are there for the constantly updated classic stiletto pump in the most delicious of colours, in leathers ranging from suede to croc. But it is Manolo’s sandals that drive me hysterical. Unfortunately their homeland outpost does stock a few of his glittery evening slippers and strappy numbers from the latest collection, but in much fewer styles than their main London boutique. The men’s section is at the back cosseted behind curtains and stocks mostly classic loafers and wonderful leather slippers with a vibe of men-don’t-get-left-behind-here rather than serious style suggestions.
(Calle Serrano 58 Ph: +34 915 759 648)

This is just a sampling of an unending list of fabulous things I saw in this city. Madrid is up there in my list of favourite cities around the globe for the following reasons: nightlife that starts at sunset with the tapas bars and finishes at sunrise with a hot chocolate; the most incredible museum in the world, the Prado, and shoes – spirit lifting, ego boosting and wallet pleasing.

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