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A Post-Crisis Design Jaunt to Paris
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| Text by Jahnvi Dameron Nandan and Illustration by Bappa | |||||||||
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Published: Volume 17, Issue 2, February, 2009
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Jahnvi Dameron Nandan kick-starts her new column by recommending some retail therapy
This holiday season, while markets plummeted, most stayed away from holiday hotspots. But amidst all this mess, I couldn’t help thinking of an escape. There is nothing better than a visit to a truly great city to soothe post-holiday, post-crisis frazzled nerves. Like Paris. Paris means great shopping, but in all fairness, it also means oppressive service (which a friend insists has drastically changed post-October where the customer is the new Sun King). Struggling to find their own terra in a globalised world, the French have brushed up their English skills lately. So while things seem to get better for the traveller, there is still no excuse for Paris not to have a decent airport-city train link. Paris has a permanent place in my heart. For me it could think no wrong, do no wrong and that heady fashion-food combo is hard to beat. Paris is at its truest in February. Dress warmly and stroll the tourist-free streets and you are in for some lovely Amélie Poulain moments. Besides, those horrid winter sales where people claw at each other for a shoe, are over. Celeb-sightings are in store during Fashion Week; Valentine’s dinner atop the Eiffel, the famed vintage car auction and this year the AC/DC concert, all promise to keep you in a belated holiday spirit. 1. While Kelly and Birkin
investments need to be put on hold, moi loves a great collaboration
– like Hermès and artist N.S. Harsha. Harsha’s designs for the Hermès
silk twill scarves are one of the nicest art/fashion moments of recent
times. Part of the 2008 Indian Fantasy series, Harsha’s painting of
40 seated figures, have been hand silk-screened onto each scarf called
Colour Masala. Paintings from this extremely private Bangalore based
artist are impossible to find and this scarf is a secret remedy for
those like me who just can’t have enough of him. (I flaunt the electric
mustard and maroon one.) 2. Finally we bid adieu
to the annoying ‘It’ bag from our style lexicon and usher in ‘vintage’.
Dary’s down the street from Hermès and opposite the electro musically
famous Hôtel Costes, is where all women of style head to for exquisite
vintage jewellery in gold, semi-precious stones, silver and bling from
18th century to modern vintage. Vintage is age defying, recession-proof
and is a prime weapon to assert both style and substance when confronted
by million dollar babes in ice pick heels and fur shrouds. 3. Further along the
road is Paris’ best chocolaterie. Jean-Paul Hévin’s finger licking truffles
are legendary – bitter on the outside they melt on the inside. And for
the true connoisseurs the 75 per cent Cuba de Hevin is rich, fine and
dark. Or you can choose a box with an assortment of his excellent pralines,
milk chocolates and ‘black pearls’ with orange peel, caramel and various
liqueurs. The chocolate macaroons are the city’s favourite as are the
‘cheese’ chocolates. 4. For the perfect wine
to go with the above (I suggest an Alsatian Riesling Vendange Tardives)
or a good bottle of cognac, Armagnac, champagne or whisky head to the
wine cellar at Paris’ finest grocery – La Grande Épicerie de Paris of
Le Bon Marché department store. I prefer this to all of Paris’ other
fabled wine merchants, because there is always a sommelier who quickly
guides you through the finer aspects of their superb collection of spirits.
And that achieved you can make a beeline for the city’s ultimate men’s
and women’s wear collections, shoes and cosmetics all housed in the
building next door. (Read writer Radhika Jha’s fabulous novel Smell,
set around this Parisian destination.) 5. The most chic watering
hole this side of the globe is the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz Paris tended
by none other than the world’s best, Colin Fields. But it’s hard to
find a place here Thursday onwards. So try to get there early for a
sure spot as the Martinis make you rock, the service is impeccable and
if in the mood to splurge, they have the world’s priciest cocktail –
the Ritz Sidecar made with 1830 Ritz Reserve Cognac priced at 700 Euros! 6. No place at the Hemingway
Bar? You could head to the Buddha Bar – ultra famous, hip but too eurotrashy.
I suggest Harry’s Bar – which is where Hemingway was headed most of
the time anyway. Its string of firsts includes Paris’ first hotdog served
here in 1925 and this is also the original home of the Sidecar, Bloody
Mary and the White Lady. Its mix of young blades and creative types
makes for a great ambience. 7. After a hard day’s
work head to the hammam, La Sultane de Saba, where your fatigue gets
scrubbed and steamed away. Paraben-free body care cannot get better
with their black clay Moroccan soaps, rose and sandal bath oils and
jasmine creams, beautifully packaged and crying to be bought. Their
amber and sandalwood perfumed oil also works as a great replacement
to spritzing EDTs. The Syrian rose prickly pear face oil in its 50ml
container is my personal fave; it also offers great on-flight hydration. 8. A visit to Paris is
incomplete without the world’s best pedicure. An appointment with Bastien
Gonzales, the king of perfect feet is a must. Bastien never soaks feet
before scrubbing, so he spots and scrubs away dead skin better. He makes
nails shine naturally so goodbye nail varnish. And if there is one must-have
product in his extensive Reverence de Bastien foot care range on sale
here, it is the chamois leather buff – it helps you keep your nails
in shiny shape for months to come. 9. For perfume shopping,
most head to Sephora on the Champs Elysees that has the biggest range
of perfumes and cosmetics in the city. But swarms of tourists on every
inch of floor space deter the serious fume lover. I usually head to
cult perfumier Diptyque. A long kept French secret – at its original
Paris boutique you shall find their entire range of 50 fragrances in
candles, eau de toilette and room sprays. These classic fragrances inspired
by nature, travel, fruits and flora have also been reincarnated as hair
and body wash. If you are in search of the perfect sandalwood fragrance,
their latest creation Tam Dao, with its notes of rosewood, cypress and
sandalwood from Goa makes it a great unisex choice. 10. And for the most
discerning, perfumier Frédéric Malle invited haute noses to create that
one fragrance they have always wanted. So nine of the world’s best perfumiers
accepted the license to mix 16 fabulous fragrances all with a high natural
content. Legendary Hermès perfumier Jean-Claude Ellena came up with
four, my favourite being Angéliques Sous la Pluie, inspired by angelika
flowers gathered just after a rain. It has a spicy hint of the angelika
flower combined with juniper berries and coriander. I personally cannot
recommend Michel Roudnitska’s Noir Epices highly enough. A delightfully
sexy and feminine fragrance, with notes of nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves
and pepper, it brings out the Mata Hari in me. I spice, I seduce and
when I walk, people talk. And before you bid adieu to this city which has attitude in every arch, stone, street and door, remember to have at least one meal prepared by some of the world’s finest chefs. Recommending great restaurants in Paris is really quite impossible, so I succumb to the raison d’être for all foodies, the faithful Michelin Guide. Jahnvi Dameron Nandan is the author of Tokyo Style File. A self-confessed travelista with the budget issues of a fashionista, she is now working on her new book on Design. Subscribe to Verve Magazine or buy the Verve issue on stands now!
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