Anamika Khanna
Onion Phenomenon
Conventional Indian elements -– kalamkari, zari, mul – receive an edge with out-of-the-box applications. Khanna’s trademark layering of textures and pieces, with sudden twists and unexpected detailing, forms a multi-dimensional collection. Antique safety pin clusters, quilting, cutwork frock-tail jackets, scalloped edges and high, square shoulders are the highlights.

Rajesh Pratap Singh
Stellar Sartorial
Signature pleats and tucks are combined with innovative seaming and panelling. Each piece is highly detailed and demands close inspection, setting new standards for construction and finish. Pratap’s ability to achieve flawless manipulations on every kind of fabric is inspiring.

Manish Arora
Brave-heart Adventures
Breaking every theory of balance and sobriety, Arora has emerged strong by sticking to his psychedelic beliefs, unfazed by criticism. Underneath the heady medley lies superior craft and engineered construction, which, when combined, forms somewhat overpowering art, but individually, miraculously transforms to wearable fashion!

Cue by Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna
Power Prêt
Geometric cowls, overlaps and simple, yet effective textures form a forward yet balanced, detail-rich collection. A comprehensive range of separates, fresh colour palette and strong prints are complemented by immaculate finish. A potential sellout!

Varun Bahl
Detailed Observations
Delicate and fresh – almost fragrant – the collection mixes separates which are rich in texture, print and detail. Subtle shape variations with pleating, knotting and ‘bag’ inserts create a structure and volume interplay. Layering adds depth, while lace textures add a playful sensuality, without being ultra-feminine.

Savio Jon
Easy Elegance
Sportswear resort with delicate deconstruction. Inverted vest-hems, androgynous shirt elements, organza overlayers, prints like ink splotches and stripes, relaxed fluidity and a clean grunge feel make this a creative collection with a laid-back charm.

Small Shop by Jason Anshu
Urban Folk
Tie-dye, tonal discharge prints, weaves and colour gradation create beautiful, multi-layered and complex textures that harmonise to form a superficial simplicity. Seam-plays, subtle shape manipulations and rich fabrics create an urban-folk feel, with some oriental styling.

Nitin Bal Chauhan
Gothic Hints
Progression in shapes and textures – with batik and graphic prints emerging as new elements. Tapes, cords, seam inserts and belts retain bits of Goth-bondage without being overt. Overall, more relaxed with a fairly good mix of separates and great construction.

Rishta by Arjun Saluja
Future Assertion
Power dressing with a part-oriental, part-futuristic bent. An assertive collection of detail-rich pieces with complex construction. Squares and cocoons are structured with frame-like seams. Metal zippers and flaps add a touch of space-age aura.

Rimzim Dadu
Surface Landscape
Elevating texture to an art form, Dadu strays from ‘pretty’, yet confines within aesthetic parameters, with a feel of grunge through cords, fraying, tubular pleats, basket weaves and more. Simple shapes maintain focus and refrain from making the collection overt.

Kallol Datta
Graphic Grunge
Plus-size fashion acquires an edge with statement prints, a progression of his signature circular patterns and three-dimensional constructions. Grungy androgyny continues with layering and styling. More hanger appeal, more mature, still adventurous and refreshingly original.

Rahul Mishra
Culture Cross
Oriental geometry combines with traditional Indian handloom textiles in a multi-ethnic mix. This is more than a ‘cut-up-sari-and-stitch’ collection – aesthetically experimental and essentially summer – with sheer and opaque plays, a crisp freshness, and subtle richness.

Varun Sardana
Pleated Perfection
Exploration of pleats in various forms, covetable separates, an art-fashion balance and quirky detailing make this a unique and individual collection. Noteworthy construction and finish lend finesse. One of the new names to watch out for.