The Dow crashed on the 15th of September 2008, Lehman declared bankruptcy and Merrill Lynch was bought by Bank of America. In this scenario, Coterie organiser ENK’s consultant Marco Innocenti’s strategic pointer, ‘No one needs another outfit in their wardrobe’, took on an ominous tone! Needless to add, while every industry was facing the onslaught of an economic crashdown, the fashion industry which by its very nature represents luxury, was bound to be the biggest victim.

Coterie, the largest tradeshow in the US produced by ENK, was showcasing the collections of roughly 600 designers to an estimated 16000 buyers from across continents. For the five designers of Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) – Narendra Kumar (Nari), Anand Kabra, Anuj Sharma, Nachiket Barve and Nikasha Tawadey – handpicked by ENK and IMG, the economic environment was not the most conducive. But that was a factor beyond anyone’s anticipation or control. And one that opened the door for opportunities beyond the obvious. IMG’s zealous efforts to provide an international platform for the LFW designers, provided the base for unexpected and enormous learning.

Lesson 1: Kinship supercedes rank
On the mezzanine level of Pier 94, an exclusive area highlighted the presence of the designers from India. Signage and poster display drew attention to the ‘new’ feature at Coterie. September 15th at noon, Anuj sports a New York avatar in denims and sunglasses far removed from his usual ‘poet meets artist meets teacher’ look. Nari carries his usual calm, unhurried manner. Nikasha’s bubbly self is contained as she tags her garments. Nachiket’s beady eye is fixed on the progress in the booths and Anand meets New York in a stylish edgy persona. And all greet each other with an effervescence that only comes from the relief of seeing familiar faces in unknown territory.

After a full day of waiting, two steamers become available, to get the garments ready for the next day. What starts as a whining campaign about how we would never need to do this at home, quickly dissipates in favour of an all-hands-on-deck approach. Nari surprises with his expertise with the steamer while others pitch in to iron and organise the garments, irrespective of who they belong to. Three hours and 300 garments later, the ‘on paper’ team of five has become a real one, rallying for each other, through the highs and lows of the next three days. “It was like going back to school,” says Anand. “I didn’t anticipate we would bond like this,” enthuses Nikasha.

Nothing however could replace the nurturing spirit of Fern Mallis – senior vice president, IMG Fashion. On all three days of Coterie, Fern gave up her appointments and stationed herself with the designers, ushering in fashion consultants, fashion directors of high-end stores like Henri Bendel and showroom agents. All beyond the purview of her role, driven purely by the passion and belief she feels for Indian fashion. That a person of her stature would race out to organise Indian sweetmeats and platters, everyday, to make the booths inviting was completely unanticipated and touching. “In a sense, we became a united Design India team – where everyone extended themselves for the others,” reminisces Nachiket.

Lesson 2: A reality check
Coterie’s scale and profile of designers ranged from Diane Von Furstenberg, Vera Wang, Tracy Reese to less known local ones. The main focus of all the collections was the medium end ready to wear garments and accessories. From daywear basics to innovative but sensibly priced resort and evening wear, the collections showcased were clearly for a more commercial market as against premium or luxury. In this scenario, the collections of the team from India, while highly appreciated were not the best fit. “Coterie is an excellent introduction to the world of fashion and the retail industry. It is however, about the right product and the right buyer. And the matching of the product with the buyer,” believes Nachiket. There was no denying that research, prior to entering a new market is critical.

Almost all designer booths, placements, appointments with buyers had been organised by showrooms/agents. Clearly, the lack of any tie-up with a showroom was a handicap for the designers from India. Despite the odds, the team booked orders from stores which chose to go with innovative design over price. “It was a confirmation that our design has a place in the US market and it was an encouraging start,” affirms Anand.

Lesson 3: Fashion is a business
“The staggering scale of the retail market was an eye opener,” exclaims Nachiket. Just to watch the buying operations at the Mara Hoffman booth and interact with the designer, was a lifetime of information -- the briefing sessions between the designers and showrooms, the orderly appointments made by the showroom with buyers, the models who displayed the collections, the transparency of operation and the scale of production. The entire operation was clear cut, focused and to the point. A similar structure albeit a different presentation method was apparent in the Tracy Reese booth.

“Coterie is the largest congregation in fashion after the New York Fashion Week, be it in terms of buyers, showrooms, PR agents,” informs Nari. This accessibility became the designers’ largest opportunity. The best consultants, PR agencies, insurance agents, credit check agents and showrooms all under one roof, allowed for interaction, leading to negotiations. “While it is good that in India the designer handles everything and so learns the ropes of each operation, the system of work here is all about the team effort, leaving the designer to do what he is meant to – design. I learnt in three days what would have taken three years,” reports Anand. “What is interesting to see is how the link between culture, finance and art make fashion dynamic and rooted in a context,” espouses Nachiket. Translated, that means an in-depth understanding of the market, consumer profiles, price indices and lifestyle habits and choices. It has to be a studied educated entry with, most importantly, production in place, if a designer is to go mainstream and sustain his position in an intensely competitive environment. It is not necessarily for everyone. “The question is am I okay with this system and am I ready to change, or am I happy with what I do in India? It will warrant another visit to become clearer on my choice,” says Anuj wisely.

The Big Apple Don’t Bite
Anuj Sharma: “I was apprehensive about New York initially but it was amazing the way I blended into the city effortlessly. My best memory? New York Fashion Week! The general mood at the fashion week was not one of snobbish appeal. It felt like the entire city had been absorbed into it!”

Narendra Kumar: “The Metropolitan Museum of Art has to have been the most mind altering experience of my trip. I spent eight hours in the museum. They easily have the best collection of contemporary art that I have seen. Even after a full day, I don’t think I have covered most of it!”

Nachiket Barve: “The grand scale of everything, the vibrant mix of people, the irrepressible energy! That was New York for me. The New York Fashion Week where I caught the Ralph Rucci, Vera Wang and Sabyasachi shows, was an unforgettable experience.”

Nikasha Tawadey: “For me personally aside from the learning we garnered, was the camaraderie we shared.”

Anand Kabra: “In 24 hours, I felt like I belonged! From what I managed in four days, the energy and shopping in Soho, the food at Buddakan and Cielo, in the Meatpacking District, rule!”

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