Its diamond-swathed body wrapped around a rare opal, the dragon’s piercing emerald eyes meet your own in a hypnotic stare, almost commanding you to clasp it to your bosom! The fiery brooch complemented by a luscious beaded bracelet are glittering showstoppers, with another 60 select pieces in Cartier’s temporary arena. We are at the Grand Palais in Paris, at the 24th Biennale des Antiquaires, listening with rapt attention to Pierre Rainero, Heritage Director, Cartier, as he reveals that much of the collection on display has already been presold – to a discreet set of buyers whose identities we will discover only when we come upon them in magazines or television flaunting their acquisitions on the red carpets of the world or at coronation extravaganzas.

Taking centre stage between the River Seine and the Champs Elysees, the 20th century Grand Palais that reopened in 2005 following a massive 12-year restoration is home to one of the world’s most glamorous art fairs where coveted works of art and antiques, currently on the market, lure connoisseurs across continents. Categorised as an historic monument the imposing structure, famed for its architectural muscle has a huge central glass dome that filters natural light onto a 40,000 sq metre space that hosts events ranging from horse shows to artistic evenings.

Today, several jewellery houses in transparently seductive mode, are flashing their twinkling wares, but Cartier rules. One of the first jewellers to include coloured gems in design, the Indian influence is apparent in some beautifully cut pieces, reminiscent of the Mughal period. The lyrical inventory is drawn from oceans and peaks, from mythology and nature that capture the real and the imaginary. There are plumed serpents encrusted with crimson sparkle and misty creations draped in cool blue sapphires that play an aquatic melody.

“Each piece here is unique and its value transcends even history and tradition,” says Rainero, of a brand that has been a favourite with monarchs and screen divas. Begum Aga Khan, British royalty, Rudolf Valentino and Maria Felix were early customers. And there is the erstwhile Indian potentate, Maharaja Bhupindar Singh of Patiala whose platinum and diamond choker was discovered on the market and rescued by Cartier. The original neckpiece, consisting of five sumptuous chain garlands with seven large cascading diamonds was perhaps sold to ward off bankruptcy by a maharaja obsessed with his jewels.

Crafted by the Cartier workshops in Paris in 1928, the choker was part of the ceremonial regalia and restored to its former splendour with old mine-cut diamonds of Indian origin to retain authenticity. The opulent piece that winks at us behind its glass shield at the Palais boasts 699 diamonds, totalling 160 carats.
Someone is going to buy – or has already bought – this precious piece of history. But Pierre Rainero is not telling.

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