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The Right Potions
Text by Tabasum Mir
Published: Volume 16, Issue 5, May, 2008
Tabasum Mir lists the top skincare ingredients to look out for

Over the years, many key medications, skin creams and procedures that target and solve problems of skincare and anti-aging have been formulated. Because of extensive testing and research, these products now can claim much more than what they once could have. The cosmetic physician has numerous ways to target skin problems these days. But, in his or her arsenal of medications, cosmeceuticals and procedures, which are the most frequently used? Here are the mainstays and some of the new, advanced treatments to watch for.

Trentinoin (Renova and Retin-A )
Trentinoin is among the most frequently prescribed US drugs for wrinkling and anti-aging. Trentinoin creams have been clinically proven to reduce fine facial wrinkles that are caused by chronic sun exposure and the natural aging process. Skin becomes smoother and softer within the first month or two. You may notice a reduction in fine facial lines and wrinkles.
However, side effects do occur when used. Among them are extreme dryness, sensitivity, redness, scaling, itching and burning. A gradual increase in the frequency and amount of trentinoin application is best, as this allows the skin to adequately adjust to the drug. One must also limit exposure to the sun (including sun lamps) and always use a sunscreen with a minimum of 15 SPF. Skin will be more sensitive to the sun. These creams are not recommended during pregnancy.

Transdermal growth factors
Topical transdermal growth factors are proteins that are involved in healing skin. The creams have been bioengineered to reverse the signs of aging. Physician strength cosmeceuticals contain human growth factors to safely rejuvenate the skin without irritation. Examples of these creams include MirSkin TGF and TNS by Skin Medica. Human Growth Factors (HGF) are naturally occurring proteins that help keep the skin firm and smooth and work to stimulate the dermis to repair collagen.

Glycolic Acids
Glycolic Acids are marketed for a variety of purposes: to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and tone, to unblock and cleanse pores, to improve oily skin and to improve skin condition in general. These acids are able to improve the skin because they are small enough to penetrate the outer layer of the skin and reach the lower layer. They increase cell turnover and slough off dull, rough skin on the surface. AHAs will not erase severely sun-damaged skin, leathery skin, or deep wrinkles, however. The benefits of AHAs can be seen in improved skin texture and they may even stimulate the production of collagen and elastin to a certain level. They are also effective in reducing acne.

Alpha Lipoic Acid
Lipoic acid is a potent and versatile antioxidant. In one small study, high potency lipoic acid was said to reduce mild-to-moderate wrinkles by up to 50 per cent, whereas fine lines almost disappeared. According to another study, lipoic acid significantly improved the appearance of certain types of scars.

Sunblock with Mexoryl
Mexoryl is known as one of the most effective UVA blockers in sunscreens today. In order for a sunscreen to be truly effective, it needs to protect skin from both UVB rays, which cause sunburn, and UVA rays, which cause long-term aging. Although the vast majority of sunscreens now offer comprehensive protection against both UVA and UVB rays, scientific research documenting the damage of UVA rays is becoming more compelling. UVB rays commonly cause the skin to go red and burn. However, UVA rays penetrate the lower dermal layer of the skin, leading to wrinkling and a greater risk of developing skin cancer. Thus, UVA protection has become increasingly important in an attempt to provide better sunscreens.

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