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Jacobs, The Genius
Text by Hina Oomer-Ahmed
Published: Volume 16, Issue 3, March, 2008
One of the most talented and talked about names on the current fashion landscape, American designer, Marc Jacobs’ name spells instant success. Hina Oomer-Ahmed peels away the creative layers to discover the fascinating dichotomy in his design style and the two kinds of women who play his muse

Proclaimed as the international fashion icon of the moment, the Marc Jacobs story is engagingly controversial — more complex and multi-layered than any ensemble that he has designed so far. The paparazzi can’t get enough of this nouveau-toned, tanned and tattooed new persona that is Mr Jacobs. Tabloids have been on their toes, constantly speculating on his new avatar, accusing him of indulging in plastic surgery and keeping too close an eye on his tempestuous relationship with partner, Jason Preston, a former male escort.

Despite all of this flurried activity, he appears to be exhilarated by this electromagnetic field of energy around him. Healthier and definitely happier with the recent transformation, Jacobs is making poignant statements with his collections. There is an unequivocal consensus that Jacobs has his finger precisely placed on the pulse of contemporary American fashion, with an ability to define and express the exact mood of the moment. His ability to absorb and interpret the melting pot of influences that is modern American culture has made him the strong shaping force that he currently is in the fashion world. Filtering through manifold influences like teen celebrity icons, all-pervasive reality TV and the work of artists he admires, he always manages to produce fashion that inspires a strong reaction from all quarters. With a devoted celebrity following, front row seats at the Marc Jacobs show are the ultimate ticket to `having arrived.’

The most intriguing aspect about Jacobs’ career is his ability to create for two entirely different brands that cater to women on diverse ends of the personality spectrum. Marc for Marc Jacobs and Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton both come out of the right brain of a designer that displays two different design sensibilities. The Marc for Marc Jacobs woman is quite simply the ubiquitous wallflower. Best defined, it’s a brand that produces edgy and retro mass-market pieces created for the introverted and mysterious girl. The kind of girl that likes to be stylish but in a compromised and gawkily awkward way – she likes to cover up rather than reveal and is inhibited in flaunting her silhouette. In his own words, his muse is Sofia Coppola, with her flat chest and shinny legs, “young, sweet, innocent and beautiful, the epitome of this girl I fantasize about.” The Marc for Marc Jacobs girl is exactly that — a girl and a vulnerable one at that. For a deeper contrast, most Marc Jacobs ads are shot by Juergen Teller and are grungy and not retouched and feature artsy girls like Winona Ryder and Rachel Feinstein.

The other Marc Jacobs, (as Creative Director for Louis Vuitton) fashions confections for the overtly glamorous woman who is perfectly conscious of her sex appeal. She is extroverted and is looking to create a stir and turn heads in every room she walks into. The nails are perfectly polished, every strand of hair is in place and the look is all luxe. Jacobs has got the needs of this society diva who oozes sexuality, down pat too. It’s a gift he has for tapping just what will work, like his collaboration with Japanese artist and pop art guru Takashi Murakami, to create a line for Vuitton that combines the iconic monogram with Murakami’s bright palette and fantastic creatures. Sold out bags, desperate buyers and extensive waiting lists are inimitable proof of the Jacobs genius.

Both labels under Marc’s creative direction are fashion forces that have become cults for the audience they cater to. Season after season he generates looks that are trendshapers for months to come. Anna Wintour’s darling prodigy has grown into a real fashion force and is continuing to redefine existing fashion sensibilities. Unpredictable and provocative, Jacobs’ multifaceted talent promises to generate many fashion milestones that the world will be watching closely.

 

 

 

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