Life | Madonna Sculptures Blue Margaritas

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Madonna Sculptures Blue Margaritas
Text by D.K. Bhaskar
Published: Volume 16, Issue 3, March, 2008

It boasts a unique blend of Mexican and American history, art, culture and cuisine. It’s got urban pizzazz and shopping galore. If that’s still not enough, Santa Fe is also the perfect romantic getaway. D.K. Bhaskar chronicles three days of magic and charm in New Mexico’s jewel

Set amid the gorgeous foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Santa Fe in New Mexico is a city where dull moments simply cease to exist. With a unique culture infused with Native American, Spanish and local influences, it more than lives up to its title, ‘The Different City’. From the downtown Plaza’s plethora of shops, to charming galleries and studios scattered all over town, Santa Fe’s offerings are endless. My three-day romance with Santa Fe turned out to be among the most exciting experiences ever.

Day 1: History hop, O’Keeffe and a thousand margaritas
Soon after checking into Sage Inn, I head straight to the Plaza, the hub of the city and a very happening place. After a hearty Mexican meal, Steve, friend, philosopher and local guide begins my sightseeing adventure. Just across the restaurant stands the Palace of the Governors. Among the oldest buildings of the country, this humble one-storey building on the north end of the Plaza has flown the flags of Spain, Mexico, the Confederacy and the US Territory. Appropriately it’s now New Mexico’s history museum, featuring changing and permanent exhibits as well as a terrific gift shop. All year round, under its shaded corridors facing the Plaza, Pueblo artisans spread out blankets stacked with turquoise and silver jewellery, beadwork and other keepsakes that make perfect gifts for loved ones or yourself.

Next, we stumble upon the legendary Georgia O’Keeffe. The spacious gallery celebrating the phenomenal artistic endeavors of Northern New Mexico’s first lady of art displays more than 80 of O’Keeffe’s works as well as exhibitions highlighting other 19th-century and contemporary artists. The upscale O’Keefe Café provides an additional incentive to visit. St. Francis Cathedral, which follows, is a historic French Romanesque church (unusual in this city of Spanish-Pueblo architecture) built by the famed 19th-century New Mexican prelate Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy. Among its star attractions is the statue of Madonna, La Conquistadora, brought to Santa Fe by the Spanish in 1692.

A leisurely stroll across the pebbled roads lined with beautiful trees brings us to the celebrated Canyon road, a street filled with galleries, shops and sculpture gardens where exquisite stone sculptures are on display. The raindrops and the setting sun have left the leaves and the walls awash in a magical glow. I take a moment or two to enjoy the music filling the plaza, then head for dinner to Maria’s of Santa Fe housed in a classical ’80s building. My platter arrives with the legendary red and green chilli sauces and a margarita for quenching my thirst, of which, happily, there are more than a hundred to choose from!

Day 2: Museum Row, shopping and some chamber music
Next morning, I drive to Santa Fe’s Canyon Road, often referred to as 'Museum Row.' Two majestic architectures are home to wonderful collection of arts, history, toys and dolls. The Museum of Indian Arts highlights the region’s oldest culture in pottery, baskets, woven blankets and stunning turquoise and silver jewellery from Pueblo, Navajo and Apache artisans. The Museum of International Folk Art has an unparalleled collection of toys, dolls, masks and musical instruments. The Hispanic Heritage wing contains Milagros, tin prayers for healing, along with other Northern New Mexico artifacts.

At noon I arrive at San Miguel Mission, the oldest church still in use in the United States, dating back to 1610. It was built by the Tlaxcalan Indians of Mexico who came to New Mexico as servants to the Spanish. The plain adobe design and earthen hues are exemplary of 17th century Catholic churches, and the centuries-old religious art on display is definitely worth a visit. Across the street is the oldest house in the United States. Again an adobe structure, this house dates back to before Spanish colonial era.

A scenic drive into the Sangre de Cristo Mountains brings me to Ten Thousand Waves, a luxurious Japanese-style spa situated among the piñon and Juniper trees. Luxuriating in a hot-stone treatment in true Zen style, I emerge refreshed and rejuvenated. Driving back to the plaza along narrow one-lane traffic, I can’t resist indulging in Santa Fe’s classic shopping experience. Not for nothing has it been described as a shopper’s Shangri-La. Exquisite jewellery, delightful pottery, elegant dresses for men and women, unforgettable works of art, both ethnic and contemporary, trinkets — the list is endless. You’ll do well to simply meander; rest assured you’ll make some delightful discoveries.

While in Santa Fe, music is everywhere. I have the pleasure of seeing the Santa Fe Chamber music festival, featuring soul-stirring renditions of Mozart, Marsalis and Brahms by renowned musicians like Kirsten Johnson, Milan Turkovic and William Preucil. The packed auditorium listens in rapt silence as performers entrance the audience for over two hours.

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