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French Chiffon And Hollywood Whimsy
Photographed By Anushka Menon
Published: Volume 16, Issue 2, February, 2008
Verve floats back in time to unravel the fashion history of the first two dynamic centuries that strikes a resonance with the styles of today...

GREGORIAN PERIOD(1714-1830)
The four King Georges ruled Britain. Opulent silks and brocades in rich, deep colours with mutton or princess- sleeved tops and long, flowing skirts or layered dresses were the preferred style. The jewellery in this era, which encompassed most of the 18th century, was mainly nature-inspired and has become a worldwide collectible. These pieces comprising birds, flowers, insects were usually handmade. Most items were encrusted with diamonds and other gems, marking the advent of luxury jewellery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

VICTORIAN ERA (1837-1900)
The Queen’s coronation in 1837. Victoria loved decadence and whatever was in fashion during her rule was strongly influenced by her. She was a trendsetter. Ensembles were luscious and voluminous with embellishments and bold floral designs. Influences of this period flowed into the visual arts, writings and music. The hour-glass figure was a big rage, so women were heavily into corsets and crinolines. The jewellery was romantic and nationalistic yet very ostentatious. The popular kinds that emerged were Cannatille (twisted strands of gold wire wound into elaborate designs) and Repousse (identified for its solid form with raised and fluted edges that give the piece its characteristic massive quality).

 

 

 

 

 

 

ART NOUVEAU(1890-1915)
Trends took an artistic turn. This is an extention of the Victorian period, gaining inspiration from the arts and craft movement in 1891.This era produced a variety of beautiful clothing and jewellery, which were ornate yet stylish, in terms of design and craftsmanship. France dominated the movement and this era flourished with originality. Creativity was pushed to the point of uniqueness. Techniques like glass and gold carving along with enamelling were used to bring about innovations in design.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

EDWARDIAN GRANDEUR(1901-1915)
King Edward became the sovereign. After the death of the queen, there was a revamping of trends, courtesy his fashionable wife, Queen Alexandra. She influenced the nation with her profusion of lace, silks, French chiffons, diamonds and pearls. The milegrain setting was used to maximise the beauty of pieces. The clothing during this time remained grand and jewellery became more delicate and detailed to exude sophistication and femininity.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ART DECO(1920-1935)
Reign of decorative arts between the two wars. This period is named after the Paris Exposition des Arts Decoratifs et Industrials Modernes. The introduction of unusual design, cubism and geometrical patterns, is what art deco is associated with. Jewellery was ornamental but abstract. Clothes became more structured, shorter and brighter. After the war there was an explosion of exuberance in style as a youthful generation took centre-stage amid a decade of prosperity.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

RETRO CHIC (1935-1950)
Hollywood glamour and glitz ruled fashion. As Europe witnessed war, the United States reaped economic benefits. Jewellery and clothing became bigger and brighter and women were emboldened to sport trends initiated by the entertainment industry. The attitude became more whimsical and capricious and women were more liberated in their sense of style. Trends in both jewellery and clothing were delicate and feminine focusing on seductive curves. Jewellery became more fanciful. Romantic motifs like bows, flowers, scrolls and ribbons became very popular.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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