Touristically, madrid has often played second fiddle to that other Spanish city, Barcelona. So, here I am, in the capital of Spain, unprepared for a city of vast avenues, fabulous fountains, cobbled streets, splendid gardens, ancient constructs and modern buildings. The business centre of Spain, home of the Spanish Parliament, the Spanish royal family and Real Madrid, the world’s most successful football club, is a city that vibrates with its people that seem to be out all day and night. Already, heading towards the city centre, from the spanking new airport terminal designed by Antonio Lamela and Richard Rogers, I discover myself wishing I had more than just a weekend in Madrid.

Later that day I meet Rosa Vimes, a freelance city guide who shepherds me through a walking tour of the older parts of the city. We start out at the Calle de La Huertas, a walking street that highlights the best of ‘literary Madrid’ as we step over biographies and quotes from writers, etched into the stone flooring. We pass by the Casa Alberto (1827) the oldest tavern in Madrid and read underfoot about writers like Benito Perez Galdos, for instance, who based his books in this city highlighting its people. Stepping over words and phrases, I shake off the feeling of blasphemy and enjoy, instead, this unusual and charming phenomenon.

Striding confidently along colourful streets, we arrive at the Plaza Mayor, a large historical square that has seen it all from bloody bullfights to hangings and royal visits. Today, in bright sunlight, artists wield their brushes taking in the spectacular square with its central statue of Filipe III. The Plaza Mayor has been the centre of the city for more than four centuries and has survived three devastating fires which required its total reconstruction. Filipe III remodelled the square in the 16th century though it was not until the 17th century that it acquired its present structure under Juan de Villanueva. The pavement restaurants and colourful umbrellas beckon but we move out of the square onto the Caille de Toledo, a typically undulating street.

Five minutes down this picturesque cobbled street, we come to the famous shoe shop, Casa Hernanz (18 Calle de Toledo). These shoemakers are apparently royal family favourites. A line of patient customers snakes its way out of the tiny shop with the huge shop window displaying the quintessential Spanish espadrille in all shades and shapes. Inside, swatches of canvas and rolls of coir and fibre are displayed for custom-made footwear. While Rosa hurries me past, I am determined to be back to get my shopping itinerary kick-started with some excellent Spanish-made summer sandals.

Rosa now ushers me up a winding road, eager to escort me to the oldest restaurant in the world, as certified by the Guinness Book of Records. The Casa Botin (17 Calle de Cuchilleros) has not changed its name or ownership since 1725 and has been serving up traditional dishes like Avila suckling pig or a well-seasoned Segovia suckling pig or a perfectly roasted Aranda lamb joint for the last three centuries. The restaurant retains the chracteristics of an ancient inn with tables extending into the quaint brick-walled cellar. I am ushered into the kitchen where a wood-fire oven releases enticing aromas and the chef and a splayed suckling in a weathered pan obligingly pose for my camera.

We traverse the cobbled paths to the Plaza de la Ville that houses some of the oldest buildings in Madrid, today in use as the Lord Mayor’s offices and private residences. Here I take leave of Rosa and my wonderful little walk through old Madrid. She points me towards the Plaza de Oriente, a square which dates back to 1811, created by Bonaparte with a wonderful view of the palace. Dominated by the equestrian statue of Felipe IV, the square reveals other statues of Spanish kings. The palace, with its many treasures, is open to visitors. The Teatro Real or Royal Theatre is also located here, a must for lovers of opera and dance.

A spot of shopping is now a must. The Salamenca District which is made up of the streets of Serrano, Velazquez and Goya, houses all the global brands as well as the main Spanish designers. Gran Via, a street lined with high street brands and theatres; Princesa; Moncloa; Orense and Azca are lined with shops that draw visitors to browse and buy. The colourful Chueca neighbourhood is a must for boots and shoes from Spanish designers. Spain’s most famous department store, the El Corte Ingles, which started out as a men’s shop, was named after the ‘English cut’ the most stylish cut at that time. The El Corte Ingles has the formidable reputation of offering everything from a small nail to the most eclectic designerwear.

Sunday morning I am in determined search of a chocolate breakfast. While in Spain, I decide to do as the Spanish do. Valor Chocolaterias since 1881 (43 Conde de Penalver), one of the chocolate bars that liberally dot the city, beckons with its heaps of chocolate con churros, wonderfully crisp donut-like fritters to be dunked in a mug of pure melted chocolate. Sinful! The menu boasts other mouth-watering concoctions like chocolate caliente con nater (hot chocolate with cream), fondue with fruit and chocolate sandwich!

Fortified, I now head to the Rastro or street market which takes place every Sunday and bank holiday in the neighbourhood known as La Latina, one of Madrid’s most traditional areas, flanked by old houses, some of them under restoration. Passing the Puerta del Sol square, which witnessed the inauguration of the first metropolitan railroad line, the first gas street lamp and the first electric lamp, I amble down the cobbled, twisting streets to the La Latina district. Portable kiosks overflowing with potted plants and flowers are a welcoming sight on the market’s margins. Stalls hung with T-shirts and trinkets, others laden with rock memorabilia and posters, artefacts and antiques, seem to lure all of Madrid. Buskers and musicians add to the excitement and merriment of the moment.

The Rastro shuts at 2.00 pm and I head for the big-name museums which are free on Sunday. The Prado museum is considered one of the best in the world and has on display paintings of the Spanish School (1100-1850, Goya, El Greco), French painting (1600-1800, Poussin, Claude Lorrain), Flemish and Dutch Painting (1430-1700, Rubens, Van Dyck), German School (1530-1800, Albrecht Durer), Italian Painting (1300-1800, Titian, Caravaggio). El Greco’s La Annunciacion, his ‘most fundamental work’ engages my attention as do his other canvases. The painting that absorbs me most, however, is La Familia, by Diego Velazquez (1656), a work oft repeated on postcards and greeting cards and now here in the flesh and blood, as it were. A smaller museum, the Thyssen-Bornemisza, is housed in the Palace of Villahermosa and has one of the most important private collections of the century with more than 800 paintings and sculptures. Madrid’s golden triangle of museums is completed by The Reina Sofia National Contemporary Art Centre. The most important painters here are Picasso and Salvador Dali and Picasso’s masterpiece, Guernica, is a must to see.

Evenings in Madrid are bustling. Madrilenos, as the city’s people are called, overrun the streets, the roadside cafes, the tapas bars and taverns. I recall Rosa mentioning that city inhabitants like to characterise themselves as los gatos or ‘the cats’ because they love to emerge at night. “In Madrid, you are never alone,” she had said, with dramatic flair. I discover this is indeed the case. Dig into a tortilla Espanola or Spanish omelette at a pavement café with a view. Grab a cana or small beer at a roadside bar, order a selection of tapas and indulge in some people watching as the gatos come out in all their evening finery.

Or you can visit one of the many Michelin Star restaurants Madrid is known for. And though Madrid hosts the largest Plaza de Toros (bullfighting ring) in Spain, Las Ventas, the bullfight holds no charms for me. Instead, I spend an evening watching that other typical Spanish skill, flamenco dancing at the Corral de la Moreria (17 Moreria), where the tables are jammed together and the paella, I am told, is not exactly authentic. But I enjoy Spanish cuisine with a modern touch, the music of castanets clicking and the “Olé!” of flamenco dancers in energetic form.

FAR AND AWAY

• The best seasons to visit Madrid are Spring and Autumn as summers, starting June 21, tend to get too hot.
• Madrid’s shops are closed on the first Sunday of each month, except at Christmas time.
• Taxis may be sometimes difficult to find but the Metro offers a Tourist Travel Pass for unlimited travel within a chosen zone.
• A must-do excursion from Madrid is to UNESCO World Heritage site Toledo (www.trapsatur.com), 70 kms to the south. This former capital of the Spanish Empire was home to artist El Greco and his famous painting, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, can be viewed at the Church of Santo Tome. The old city offers winding cobbled streets, enormous gateways, ancient monuments and souvenir shops laden with gold-inlaid jewellery and swords.