Touristically, madrid has often played second fiddle to that other Spanish city, Barcelona. So, here I am, in the capital of Spain, unprepared for a city of vast avenues, fabulous fountains, cobbled streets, splendid gardens, ancient constructs and modern buildings. The business centre of Spain, home of the Spanish Parliament, the Spanish royal family and Real Madrid, the world’s most successful football club, is a city that vibrates with its people that seem to be out all day and night. Already, heading towards the city centre, from the spanking new airport terminal designed by Antonio Lamela and Richard Rogers, I discover myself wishing I had more than just a weekend in Madrid.

Later that day I meet Rosa Vimes, a freelance city guide who shepherds me through a walking tour of the older parts of the city. We start out at the Calle de La Huertas, a walking street that highlights the best of ‘literary Madrid’ as we step over biographies and quotes from writers, etched into the stone flooring. We pass by the Casa Alberto (1827) the oldest tavern in Madrid and read underfoot about writers like Benito Perez Galdos, for instance, who based his books in this city highlighting its people. Stepping over words and phrases, I shake off the feeling of blasphemy and enjoy, instead, this unusual and charming phenomenon.

Striding confidently along colourful streets, we arrive at the Plaza Mayor, a large historical square that has seen it all from bloody bullfights to hangings and royal visits. Today, in bright sunlight, artists wield their brushes taking in the spectacular square with its central statue of Filipe III. The Plaza Mayor has been the centre of the city for more than four centuries and has survived three devastating fires which required its total reconstruction. Filipe III remodelled the square in the 16th century though it was not until the 17th century that it acquired its present structure under Juan de Villanueva. The pavement restaurants and colourful umbrellas beckon but we move out of the square onto the Caille de Toledo, a typically undulating street.

Five minutes down this picturesque cobbled street, we come to the famous shoe shop, Casa Hernanz (18 Calle de Toledo). These shoemakers are apparently royal family favourites. A line of patient customers snakes its way out of the tiny shop with the huge shop window displaying the quintessential Spanish espadrille in all shades and shapes. Inside, swatches of canvas and rolls of coir and fibre are displayed for custom-made footwear. While Rosa hurries me past, I am determined to be back to get my shopping itinerary kick-started with some excellent Spanish-made summer sandals.

Rosa now ushers me up a winding road, eager to escort me to the oldest restaurant in the world, as certified by the Guinness Book of Records. The Casa Botin (17 Calle de Cuchilleros) has not changed its name or ownership since 1725 and has been serving up traditional dishes like Avila suckling pig or a well-seasoned Segovia suckling pig or a perfectly roasted Aranda lamb joint for the last three centuries. The restaurant retains the chracteristics of an ancient inn with tables extending into the quaint brick-walled cellar. I am ushered into the kitchen where a wood-fire oven releases enticing aromas and the chef and a splayed suckling in a weathered pan obligingly pose for my camera.

We traverse the cobbled paths to the Plaza de la Ville that houses some of the oldest buildings in Madrid, today in use as the Lord Mayor’s offices and private residences. Here I take leave of Rosa and my wonderful little walk through old Madrid. She points me towards the Plaza de Oriente, a square which dates back to 1811, created by Bonaparte with a wonderful view of the palace. Dominated by the equestrian statue of Felipe IV, the square reveals other statues of Spanish kings. The palace, with its many treasures, is open to visitors. The Teatro Real or Royal Theatre is also located here, a must for lovers of opera and dance.