The Dresden airport is a ghost town compared to the bustling Frankfurt airdrome I passed through just a few hours ago. With a total population of only half a million people, there are rare chances of ever finding a bar, restaurant or club where you cannot be seated almost immediately. I am staying at the cosy Bülow Residenz hotel, a member of the exclusive ‘Relais & Châteaux,’ an association that ties up about 450 hotels worldwide. During the drive, my enthusiastic chauffeur Görg gives me the low down on what’s hot in this sleepy little city. We pass a Porsche showroom, (a communist building till a few years back). “Thank God they took it down,” he says, before moving on to the next topic, his recently purchased Porsche Cayenne.

Coerced into several wars in the past, Dresden today, both old and new — the two areas of town that are divided by the River Elbe — has an old-world charm which its people are trying hard to preserve. Relentlessly bombed during the second World War, narrow cobblestoned streets flanked by charming cafés, boutiques and buildings, open up to wide, clean roads in the more recently reconstructed areas of town.

A quick check-in and it’s time for some sightseeing at old Dresden. Named after the malachite colouring of its original walls, the Green Vault is the prime attraction at the Royal Castle, Theaterplatz. This most comprehensive collection of artefacts from the Renaissance and Baroque periods was put in safe keeping during World War II and finally restored to its original setting in 2006 in an event the locals still refer to as the ‘green miracle.’ A viewing of such an exhibition is strictly by invitation or by purchasing a ticket several months in advance. So, it pays to be a guest of A Lange & Söhne, a mechanical watch making company, whose connection with the city dates back to the early 1800s. At their request, an exclusive tour is arranged almost immediately.

Walking through its ivory, white silver, insignia, bronze and jewel rooms (all showcasing unbelievable craftsmanship), I hear of Augustus the Strong, elector of Saxony and king of Poland (1670-1733). Augustus was a fan of all things beautiful — the arts, theatre, fine jewellery, gemstones and women. Though he passed away in 1733, Augustus’ boisterous spirit lives on with a gold-plated statue of him riding a horse located bang in the centre of New Dresden.

In every street corner of Dresden, you can find galleries or studios with contributions from local artists, some of the most dramatic being sculptures by Matgorzata Zimmerling. It is on the request of Fabian Krone, CEO, A Lange & Söhne, that Matgorzata and her husband Klaus open the doors to their gorgeous vineyard and allow me a glimpse into their lives. Klaus is extremely passionate about his wine, which he produces under his name , Zimmerling. He fusses over his guests, pouring glass after glass of his delicious blends. He has worn a kurta purchased on his last trip to Mumbai in my honour.

A visit to Dresden, I discover, is incomplete till you make a quick stop off at the infamous Zwinger that features some exquisite architecture, and like many of the city’s prominent buildings, was commissioned by Augustus the Strong. The vast complex features six pavilions connected by long galleries. Large windows allow you to get a glimpse of the porcelain collection and other paintings that the galleries house. Adjacent to the Zwinger lies the Semperoper or the Semper Opera House, one of the city’s most important cultural institutions. The building reopened in 1985 after extensive reconstruction with an overbooked performance of Weber’s Der Freischutz, the last opera to be performed before the bombing.

For a quick lesson in Dresden history, take a walk past the 102 metre long mosaic called Procession of Princes. This work of art has a total of 35 princes, dukes and kings on horseback accompanied by other foot soldiers. A walk down this street opens up to the main square where you are greeted by the Church Of Our Lady,another landmark of Dresden.

Not really known as a shopper’s paradise, Dresden’s local markets nevertheless offer you some eclectic buys and traditional delights. With gourmet restaurants and cafés around almost every corner, the variety of food is endless. And should you feel homesick, head to the local Indian restaurant, Kamasutra. The spicy flavours will transport you right back home!