Not so long ago Italian wines had a pretty poor reputation, mainly brought on by ignorance. The Italians were no fools. They kept the best for themselves and exported very average, commercially acceptable, party wines. Some of the Chiantis that were exported in raffia-wrapped flasks were so dreadful that the Italian word for flask – ‘fiasco’ entered everyday parlance as a synonym for ‘disaster’.

In the past 20 years or so, Italian wines have improved their image enormously throughout the world. Those cheap, vinegary Chiantis that flooded Europe in the 60s and 70s have disappeared, and in their place we can now sip serious and elegant Chiantis in distinctive Bordeaux-style bottles; rich, deep serious Barolos bursting with complicated flavours; Super Tuscans at super prices; towering Brunellos with their seductive mix of earth, leather and ripe fruit and my own discovery, Amarone della Valpolicella. This dry red wine is made from the modest Valpollicella grape which comes from the Veneto, a region epitomising northern Italian elegance around towns like Venice and Verona. The Veneto is normally known for fresh, light wines that are best when consumed quite young. Most of these Veronese bottlings (Bardolino, Soave) are simple but enjoyable, and trade on their easy, youthful charm.

A few years ago, I was taken on a tour of some wineries in the Veneto region. In one particular winery, weary from all the tasting and hanging around, I was lured by a young winemaker who asked if I wanted to try his Amarone. The winery was Fratelli Pasqua, a good winemaker of the region but not considered extraordinary. I obliged and was amazed at the first sip. It was dark and fragrant with an aroma of spice, almonds and raisins. The velvety texture was weighty on the palate and gently took possession of my mouth with the enjoyable and effortless simplicity of a truly great red wine. Amarone is an assertive wine, warm, slightly spicy, cherry and ripe and dried fruit flavours which are balanced by a palate cleansing acidity and a stylish elegance. The wine is made from ripe clusters of grapes which are spread out and dried in wooden drawers or on straw mats in storage rooms until they turn to raisins. The resulting juice is highly concentrated and produces a wine with a high alcohol level and little sweetness with great structure and body. They are kept for at least five to seven years before drinking. On a recent trip to Italy, I was fortunate enough to taste a 1971 Amarone from a friend’s private cellar. The label was handwritten and the producer was difficult to make out. We let it breathe for two hours and the result, although slightly less vibrant in colour than an Amarone today, was so powerful and intense that I couldn’t even eat at the same time.

Since then I have gone on an obsessive quest to find the best ones. I am still loyal to Pasqua. If it wasn’t for them, I would probably still consider Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti and Brunello as the best Italian reds. I have since drunk Amarones from Speri, Masi, Allegrini, Dal Forno, Nicolis e Figli, Zenato and Alighieri. Many of these producers have won the coveted 3 Glasses, the top award for a wine in Italy awarded by the Gambero Rosso.

In matching it with food, be extremely careful. This wine tends to overpower whatever is on the plate. Amarone needs robust fare, such as roasts, duck, goose and game and goes perfectly with Parmesan cheese. On experimentation in my own kitchen, I find that Amarone is very suited to the sweet, sour and spicy (not chilli) flavours of Indian, Asian and Middle Eastern dishes.