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OLD PEAK, NEW WONDER
Text and Photographs by D.K.Bhaskar
Published: Volume 15, Issue 9, September, 2007

Built at the zenith of Inca reign and mysteriously abandoned a hundred years later, the pre-Columbian city, Machu Picchu in Peru is an architectural marvel, a historical puzzle and a place of stunning natural beauty. D.K.Bhaskar braved the arduous Putukusi mountain trek to find the Lost City and survived to tell the tale

The magnificent sight that unfolds from the top of the Putukusi Mountain appears to emerge from an idyllic dream. Soft, intriguing ferns. Orchids in bloom. Riotously-hued birds. And clouds that seem to be ever moving. The world heritage site of Machu Picchu, literally meaning ‘old peak,’ is among the new wonders of the world. And wondrous it sure is.

I had prepared myself along with Norman, my Peruvian contact, to climb the Putukusi. After scaling steep ladders that stand at a dramatic inclination, with rocks almost ready to slip at one step, the triumph of the trek is the sight you behold from the summit. Although we had some tense moments in our adventure, I was overwhelmed with emotion by my first view of this architectural wonder, which far surpassed my expectations. The stone walls of the lichen-filled complex glowed in the soft light caressing the boundary walls. The surrounding multicoloured vegetation appeared like a Peruvian beauty with a flowing, green shawl draped around her. It was breathtaking.

Next morning, a four-hour downpour dampened our hopes of reaching the Machu Picchu complex at the crack of dawn when it is least crowded and particularly beautiful. When we finally landed in Machu Picchu, clouds were moving at a rapid speed, giving way to resplendent sunshine over the ruins. The light reflecting off the Urubamba River a distant 8,000 ft below appeared to wrap around the ruins like a silver ribbon. The day turned out to be beautiful, after all; in the distance, snow-capped peaks glinted in the sun. I later realised it didn’t really matter whether the weather was good or Machu Picchu was shrouded in mist. On a perfect day, you can see clearly how its well-planned architecture blends with the spectacular scenery of the surrounding peaks and gorges. While on a cloudy day, mist wraps the stone engineering in a soft cloak of magic and mystery.

The Machu Picchu archaeological complex is perched at an elevation of 2,430 m above sea-level on the slopes of the Vilcanota mountain range, a chain of mountains flanked by the Apurimac and Urubamba Rivers. History has it that just before the Spanish Conquest, Machu Picchu was mysteriously abandoned when it was still in its golden age. There is no record of why Machu Picchu was built since the Incas had no script. This is no small puzzle. The enigmatic Incas knew neither the use of the wheel nor any written language, but forged an empire stretching 3,680 km along the mighty Andean heights which only a few had managed to live through before. Even today the ruins perched high on a ridge look like they could slide into the precipitous gorge below.

As you walk past the check point at the front gate, the magnificent landscape totally captivates you with its clay and stone architecture, spotlessly clean surroundings and a carpet of lush-green vegetation. The towering mountain ranges of Putukusi, Huayna Picchu and Wyna Picchu confers an unusual dimension to the gorgeous architecture. Built over carefully chiselled stone blocks, the ruins bear testimony to the immaculate engineering skills of the Incas. It was probably the most amazing urban creation of the Inca Empire at that height; its giant walls, terraces and ramps seem as if they have been cut naturally in the continuous rock escarpments. The walls are built in an earthquake-resistant way, slightly slanted and the terracing that surrounds the ruins prevents it from sliding down the steep mountainside. The ruins still have excellent acoustic properties, as demonstrated by our guide talking softly to someone down below in the plaza, who appeared to hear him perfectly. Clapping induces a clear echo from the other side of the ruins. The conservation methods adapted are astounding and remarkable.

‘The lost city of the Incas’ remained forgotten for several hundred years. In 1911, Hiram Bingham, an explorer from Yale University, ‘rediscovered’ it and started the reclamation process. The citadel is divided into two sectors: the agricultural (terracing) and the urban, where there are main squares, temples, palaces, storehouses, workshops, stairways, cables and water fountains which run through both sectors, which measure 20 and 10 hectares respectively.

Machu Picchu attracts several explorers and also fascinates botanists, geologists, archaeologists, romantic couples and adventurers alike. This natural setting on the eastern slopes of the Andes stands in the middle of a tropical mountain forest, encompasses the upper Amazon basin with its rich diversity of flora and fauna. The overpowering majesty of the mountains is a treat to nature enthusiasts and adventure lovers. The vegetation surrounding this historic place is equally astounding. The entire area is called the Machu Picchu sanctuary and is home to some of the most spectacular bird habitats. It houses 125 species of birds including a rare sword-billed hummingbird.

Although it was raining heavily, we didn’t want to give up our plans of climbing Wyna Picchu, a towering mountain that rises to a height of 3700 mts and is a distinguishing landmark adjacent to Machu Picchu. This was perhaps the most testing time of my physical endurance during the visit.

The rocks were slippery, the moss that had formed was not helping our cause and the incline was almost 80 degrees on extremely gruelling terrain. Only a select number (400) of people are allowed to climb per day. I somehow managed to sneak in while my friend couldn’t. A two-hour climb ends with an awe-inspiring vista of the dramatic scenery.

The entire mountain pathway is a single track and has to accommodate both the climbing and descending hikers. An hour-and-a-half trek on the original Inca stones was perhaps the hardest of all treks but worth every inch of the effort. Directly overlooking the huge complex below, I wondered how the Incas could build such a magnificent structure at the top with sheer drops all around. The climb down was equally challenging. One has to climb in the same style as the Incas and there are absolutely no safety measures. I slipped twice but survived to describe the beauty of this scenic landscape.

Another spectacular view of Machu Picchu is from the sun gate, Intipunku. A serious trek of an hour along the cobbled pathway and dense vegetation brought me to this point. By now my knees had taken a serious pounding and I was pulling on with great difficulty. Most hikers from the Incan trail wake up early on the last day of their hiking programme and come to this gate before sunrise to get the first glimpse of the stone ruins. Most often the clouds moving briskly over the complex confer a painting like effect on the incredible landscape.

Even as we find answers to the riddle that is Machu Picchu, some new questions arise. Before I visited Machu Picchu, my aim was to see this spectacular relic in person. Today, my ambition is to return to configure the missing links in our knowledge of this stunning wonder.

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