I stumbled into designing," jokes designer Pankaj Ahuja who is currently creating waves in a complacent fashion industry. When he appeared for his NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology, New Delhi) entrance exam he did not know what to expect. "All I knew was that I had a strong interest in art…but designing soon became an important part of my life." Just one of those times when everything fell into place, he says prestigious styling awards poured in one after another - the Uma Nath Gold Medal for academics, the Smirnoff International Fashion Award and finally, in 1995, the Ritu Kumar Medal for the best graduating collection.

"With Rohit Bal, there is never a dull moment," he chuckles referring to the nine years that he spent thereafter working with one of India's most revered designers. Under Bal's wing, Ahuja, who was then part of a small group of less than 20, concentrated on developing new ideas and textiles. Bal's "strong sense of aesthetics," taught Ahuja about design, proportion and colour. "He gave us the creative freedom to explore…and I am extremely fortunate to have had the experience." In 2006 Ahuja left the "comfort zone" of Rohit Bal's now "nicely structured company" behind and set up a label in his own name. "Your own name always works better than any other. People recognize and relate to it immediately."

Retailing from the Garden village in Delhi, Ahuja can be found busily catering to his demanding clientele waiting to get their hands on his "simple, elegant and wearable outfits that are intelligently embellished". He quietly discloses that he uses lighter colours and experimental cuts for Mumbai, whereas Delhi seems to prefer richer colours and fabrics. But lest we dwell once again on the tales of tales of two cities, he quickly adds, "India is overall a great market!"