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The ITALIAN cut : BORN TO BE WILD
Published: Volume 14, Issue 7, December, 2006

For the man who flourishes in sheer abandon. For the woman who feels like a queen. Revel in Etro's Fall/Winter 2006-07 collection

The male soul revels and seeks out the new, shattering conventions, in Etro's Men's collection Fall/Winter 2006-07. Notes of passion, secrets of the unknown and the allure of the classic melt together and make way for the evergreen leitmotif in menswear - the Prince of Wales check. Stripes flirt and prints cavort with white to create new checks, windowpane patterns and mini and maxi Prince of Wales motifs. Collars and cuffs on shirts carry contrasting bold designs and the tie morphs into a six centimetre strip. The double-breasted jacket reappears in slimmer and shorter proportions with the V-neck forming the vital point of reference - flaunt minus a shirt to lend a soft accent without revealing all.

In knitwear, light pullovers worn under jackets, cardigans and sleeveless vests make an appearance. The wool is knit with geometrical motifs and other classic Argentine patterns. Yet the hottest pick is the light and alluring wrap-around textured coat. Boot up the polo way and in moccasins and pay homage to the classic Argentine style. Oxford Brogue lace up shoes complete this sartorial elegance.

The Summer collection reflects the demeanour on an adventurous voyage a la Homer's Odyssey. The suit mutinies and emerges with slim fitting, squared or rounded shoulders, shorter and double-breasted, or with cadet collars and wide flat lapels. Light waistcoats, long and wide legged pants together with wide waistbands or hip hugging belts rule. Others have fuller silhouettes and pockets, laces, low crotch and drawstring details stroking their length. The breath of the sea appears in shell buttons that replace gold ones on official jackets. Ship ropes turn into bulky linen yarn for knitwear, belts and shirts are embroidered and studded with flora and fauna of the abyss and bracelets are fashioned from remnants of regimental fabric and cowries, necklaces from boat lines and snap hooks. The Water dragon that symbolises the guardian of the pearl of life, stamps the collection, wherein flowers bloom on summer shirts with tribal tattoos and body art transposed on the fabric.

Splendid court gowns of 16th century queens transform into embroidered creations replete with geometric-like ruches, urban graffiti prints and studded metallic inserts in the Etro Fall/Winter collection 2006-07. The romantic feminine mystique finds expression in lace tattooed on devore velvet or stencilled on satin skirts and dresses, interspersed richly with the paisley motif. Three dimensional origami shapes decorate coats up to the collar and adorn footwear in the form of romantic ruches. Etro dips into the radiant elements of the period, through treated, aged or laminated fabrics like velvet, taffeta and satin and lends a contemporary twist. Narrow strips of patent leather make for glossy trimmings on jackets. Dyed mink strips line collars and the knightly allies in bronze, nickel and brass speckle tops and dresses together with ornamental Elizabethan mini golden spheres. Even the simple white T in satin is artfully crafted. Slip into the tweed jacket to get a feel of the English countryside but accessorise right. Rhodium necklaces, shoulder bags crusted with jewels, winking tiaras and rings with a paisley seal hark the bounty. Revel regally.

Passionate and enthusiastic, the Spring/Summer collection colludes with utopic nomad aesthetics. Oriental motifs of Japanese kimonos dialogue with modern graphic design and patchwork rules through batik motifs, generous stripes and floral potpourri. Colours of the world unite and explode in vivid turquoise, lemon yellow, lacquer red and cyclamen pink. The crowning glory appears in the form of black, shiny sequins crocheted together in a semblance of an architectural tunic and in svelte, resin coated linen vests bathed in gold metallic sheen. Long and flowing or short and sharp silhouettes make a mark in fabrics like damask, gossamer, satin and cotton.

Mini skirts with sculptural pleats, pencil pants, atelier T-shirts and whimsical hippie embroidery reminiscent of the 70s complete the collection. The hottest pick is the tie scarf worn with a sexy button down blouse. Choose that and then some from the fiery trinkets - brooches in kaleidoscopic sequins resembling stylised petals, costume jewellery of fish and Tao spirals that carries fetish allure, bracelets realised in cubes and rhomboids, bewitching arm bands and vampire shoes.

 

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