A Renaissance church watches over a terraced wine bar. A luxury label jostles for attention against a historic tea room. An imposing arch overlooks a tourist booth selling cotton candy. In Rome, you can chase both Caravaggio and Materazzi, says Mala Vaishnav
My
ill-exercised neck, unused to contorting itself in so many directions
all at once and certainly not inclined to gazing upwards for an unbroken
60 seconds, already feels displaced from the rest of my body. Michelangelo,
I salute you. Not only did the famed sculptor-artist lie on his back
for four years, 'brushstroking' a ceiling that would outlive horrific
wars and changing winds, but imprinted his genius in a way that no history
book can ever recapture. Sure, he fell off his precarious perch a couple
of times and cracked a few bones, but that was a minor occupational
hazard, shrugged off by the commissioning Pope (Julius II) of the time.
My reverie is shaken with terse commands of 'No flash!' and 'Silence
please!' as the watchdogs of the Sistine Chapel frown at the forbidden
cameras that surreptitiously creep forth from some deviants in the mob,
defiantly freezing quick frames of the Biblical frescoes.
Six centuries after Michelangelo's Creation of Man, the crowds continue to swell and we are hustled out with the flow into another crowd-pulling wonder - St Peter's Church, the world's largest Christian church and a magnificent relic of Renaissance architecture. In a quiet nook, sits the tragic Pieta protected from viewers by a measured distance and bulletproof glass. The celebrated sculpture, carved from a single block of marble and the only one ever signed by Michelangelo, was almost destroyed by a demented person in 1972.
Vatican City, the smallest independent state in the world since 1929, housing the above aesthetic marvels, the Pope and several Malayali Catholics who serve God in His kingdom, is as large as an average (European) city park with its distinctive marble columns and high stone walls - the very ones scaled by Tom Cruise in this year's action-packed, breathlessly paced Mission Impossible III.
From
the realms of compassion and prayer, we find ourselves at the threshold
of a monumental ruin, steeped in the blood of persecuted Christians
mauled by lions and gladiators impaling each other till the last breath.
Erected between 72 and 80 AD, the imposing Colosseum, witness to the
most unholy acts of barbarism, stands strangely forlorn in its skeletal
travertine stone, stripped of its marbled splendour. Back in those days,
the amphitheatre could be emptied of 60,000 spectators through 80 numbered
arches in less than 20 minutes; today, in view of the snaking queues
and security checks, it will probably take 20 hours to just gain admittance
inside! Then, posing for mementoes against the neighbouring Arch of
Constantine, our small group notices a newly-wed couple alongside, getting
into photo album mode. While the bride arranges her lacy trail into
chic folds, and the groom, straightens his bow, flashbulbs pop, catching
their smiles and embraces for the camera. "Very common in Europe," supplies
Francois Ganes, to our silent query. "Get married, then take a picture
in front of an ancient monument!" Francois, operations manager for luxury
brand, Fendi, remembers his promise to the gelato fans in our group,
and whisks us away to one of the best gelaterias (Ciampini 2) in the
city, where the chocoholics amongst us revel in each frozen bite of
the generous scoops.
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