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Sharp Suits And Flapper Dresses
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| Text by Bandana Tewari | |||||||||
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Published: Volume 14, Issue 6, November, 2006
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Bandana Tewari views the London Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2007 collection and discovers designers who are as varied - socially, culturally and economically - as the many layers of this city
'Sinful latex beds with celibate cotton' announced the label Noir as it kicked off the first show of the week with Cotton Couture, a wonderful effort at 'fashion with a conscience'. As sharp suits juxtaposed with floating dresses hit the ramp, the buzzword generated by this Danish label was - eco-fashion. Encouraging people to purchase clothing that supports sustainable business processes in the Third World, the message was clear - consume responsibly. You don't want to be caught wearing a super-luxe handcrafted skirt that required an entire village of artisans in the Third World, to go sleepless and underpaid for a week or more, just so you can flaunt it in the Summer of '07. In short, it's important to ask the provenance of your clothes. Else you may not be able to sew back what you heap.
And of course, where there is eco-fashion, there is also, poking its twisted head from the wing, adrenalin fashion, a style caught somewhere between imminent death and eternal life. Reminiscent of Jun Takahashi's leather gagged faces from his last collection, Gareth Pugh threw caution (and wearability) to the winds and paraded models in monstrous black checkered uniforms that looked like a cross between Darth Vader and knights of a psychotic Gothic cult. It really was fashion turned inside out, an exaggerated and dark take on Westwoodian aesthetics that saw fashion, the plaything of vanity, become the monster that consumes with its sheer absurdity. This conceptual show did more for the dynamism of London fashion than say, several of the PYT designers that the Chelsea girls love to chase with their bubbly. Adding to this drama were several hidden cameras that recorded the audience as they settled in for the show. This film will be part of a series that will be part of Pugh's Fash-Off project that brings experimental fashion films to the fore. It was all beautifully weird. The predator became prey, the spectator, the spectacle! |
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