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Fashion Flaunt

Published: Volume 14, Issue 3, May-June, 2006

Elizabethan and Sufiesque, minimalist and adorned, vintage and modern - the ensembles at the twin Fashion Weeks exhibited all the splendour.Verve brings you some of the designers' collections soon to hit stores, and how you can make a très chic impression with them.

ROCKY S
HOME BASE: Mumbai
SHOWCASE: Lakmé Fashion Week
COLLECTION: 'Lovely Lolitas', the theme for Rocky S's prêt label Rocky S Noir had a flirty yet dark side to it. Nubile models sashayed down the ramp in baby-doll tops and one-shoulder toga tops in georgettes worn with micromini skirts and sequinned jeans. The structured Spencer jacket created an interesting contrast teamed with hot shorts and knee-length bloomers. Cute, pink cartoon prints on tees added to the innocence. The mood took on a darker hue with blouson blouses and black and lace shifts. Embellished with crystals and pearls, lace was used lavishly for layering, and three-dimensional flowers were spotted on many of the garments. The big show-stopper was the bridal gown in black lace with a very Gothic feel to it.
ACCESSORIES: Silver stilettos, corsages for the hair, stone brooches, high waist lace belts, cow hide totes and square white-rimmed sunglasses.
COLOUR STORY: Inspired by the '40s, the favoured colours were neutrals with deep pastels like pink, champagne and greens with large doses of vibrant red and black.
FLAUNT IT: Layer the white shirt with a printed tee and combine them with the sequinned mini to look hip at a music concert; look divine in the pretty blue toga on a romantic weekend date.
GRAB THEM HERE: Rocky S flagship store, Aza and Fuel in Mumbai, Ebony/Ivory and Genesis Colours in New Delhi, Collage in Bangalore and Chennai.

APARNA CHANDRA
HOME BASE: New Delhi
SHOWCASE: Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week
COLLECTION: Swinging at the prom, twisting to rock and roll and twirling to jazz - all of it inspired Aparna Chandra's fall collection. With clean lines, the ensembles looked fun and super cool. Shirt dresses with high waist belts, textured sheaths with plunging necklines and chequered flare skirts along with palazzo pants spelled feminine elegance loud and clear. The sexy silver strapless number was made girly with pink flowers along the hemline. More late-night options came in the form of sequinned party skirts and the classic black sheath. With its tailored yet classic cuts, this minimalist collection was meant to charm the urbane Indian woman.
ACCESSORIES: Mardi Gras-inspired long pearl necklaces, floral-shaped hats, slim patent leather belts and closed pumps.
COLOUR STORY: Predominantly black and white, the collection displayed splashes of silver, fuchsia and parrot-green.
FLAUNT IT: Impress the boss in office with the sophisticated yet feminine polka-dot shirt dress; boogie the night away, sipping Cosmopolitans, in the sexy sequinned skirt with the pink velvet jacket.
GRAB THEM HERE: Ensemble and Amara in Mumbai, Ensemble and Ogaan in New Delhi, FFolios in Bangalore.

ROHIT GANDHI AND RAHUL KHANNA FOR CUE
HOME BASE: New Delhi
SHOWCASE: Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week
COLLECTION: This line was inspired by the modern-day Eve or Juliet who is a globetrotter, loves culture and shopping at charming antique stores, and whose wardrobe spells chic. Displaying draped pleats and lace blouses, the collection progressed to detailed dresses with engineered flares and embellished skirts with godets teamed up with satin corsets and ruffle-collar blouses. Menswear too featured couture embellishments on slim shirts and fitted jackets. Matt laces, velvet trimmings and unconventional silver thread add-ons exuded luxury.
COLOUR STORY: Vintage romance with shades of pearly whites, then the mood turned racier with glamorous pinks, old rose and metallic-brown.
ACCESSORIES: Knee-high boots, oversized tote bags and lace hair accessories.
FLAUNT IT: Wear the bubble-hemmed chiffon dress on an alfresco summer evening; show off the bronze layered top at an exclusive nightclub.
GRAB THEM HERE: Cue H20 stores at Golf Links and The Crescent Mall in New Delhi, 7 Best Marg and Ensemble in Mumbai, Cue H20 stores in Bangalore and Kolkata.

RANNA GILL
HOME BASE: New Delhi
SHOWCASE: Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week
COLLECTION: Titled 'Elizabeth', Ranna Gill's line evoked a vintage, feminine charm for the modern woman who's a romantic at heart. The collection was an amalgamation of tailored silhouettes seen on pegged and circular skirts, and fitted jackets that were clinched at the waist. Ruffles formed a key element of the entire line, mostly seen on shirts and empire line blouses. The day dresses appeared comfy and flirtatious while the evening dress took on a glam hue. Lace and crochet combined with subtle Indian embroideries like kantha and appliqué added texture and detail to the ensemble.
COLOUR STORY: Black and white accentuated with red, teal, peacock and midnight-blue. Polka dots, lily and paisley prints enhanced the feminine feel.
ACCESSORIES: Long pearl necklaces, Victorian brooches, ballerina shoes.
FLAUNT IT: Wear the tailored jacket and skirt to any corporate event and make a fabulous impression; flirt in the polka-dot dress on a brunch date.
GRAB THEM HERE: Ranna Gill flagship store and The Crescent Mall in New Delhi, 7 Best Marg and Kimaya in Mumbai.

FALGUNI AND SHANE PEACOCK
HOME BASE:
Mumbai
SHOWCASE: Lakmé Fashion Week
COLLECTION: Titled 'Peacock Girl', this line was created in true over-the-top Peacock fashion. Short, layered dresses spilled onto the catwalk. Slit chiffon gowns were moulded till the waist and fabric flowed below alluringly. Skirts also featured layering with raw edged silk. There was a lot of construction detailing on all outfits with ruching, gathers and soft pleats. This luxurious collection also included vintage fur-trimmed jewelled jackets in velvet and silk. An interesting adaptation though was of the sari as a mini sari that skimmed the knees.
COLOUR STORY: The 'it' colour was brown with other muted shades of ink-blue, maroon, purple and black. Embroideries had a dull-gold antique look.
ACCESSORIES: Chunky gold anklets, crystal-embellished Roman tie-ups, jewelled clutches, embroidered leather doctor bags and rose corsages.
FLAUNT IT: Wear the short dress when you go clubbing; look your elegant best in the graceful gown at a red-carpet evening high on the glam quotient.
GRAB THEM HERE: Peacock Forever in Mumbai, Kimaya in New Delhi.

SAVIO JON
HOME BASE: Goa
SHOWCASE: Lakmé Fashion Week
COLLECTION: Simplicity and no fuss were the underlying aspects of Savio Jon's collection. It included clean, simple silhouettes that were easy on the eye. Bereft of embellishments other than small pearls on the neckline, the chiffon dresses showed off innovative cuts. Free-flowing layered georgettes in the T-shaped silhouette were seen alongside bubble skirts. Inspired by the cocoon, the look was easy and chic. Crochet fabric with a flower motif added textured details to yokes, edges and even made up a pinafore.
Also seen were tiered gowns contrasted with bright shifts, streamer details on dresses, and tube minis in velvet.
ACCESSORIES: Jon kept the simple look going with no accessories other than brown sandals with block heels.
COLOUR STORY: Muted tones of khaki, tobacco, petrol-blue, brown and a dash of red were teamed with a line of olive-green prints, multicoloured abstract designs and a hint of animal patterns.
FLAUNT IT: Stand out in the crocheted pinafore at an art show; revel in a layered shift with pearl straps at the opera.
GRAB THEM HERE: Ensemble in Mumbai.

DEEPIKA GEHANI
HOME BASE: Mumbai
SHOWCASE: Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week
COLLECTION: Inspired by the 'Shades of Love', this collection was reminiscent of an era long gone. With an opulent mélange in taffeta and detailing in ruffles, it had reflections of the seductive costumes of colonial Spanish ladies. Jackets had interesting ruffled collars and elongated sleeves. The dresses, in digital lace prints, were cut in a wearable wrap and empire line style. More romance was seen in the long, floor-sweeping organza skirts with Chantilly godets combined with luxurious long brocade jackets. The charm turned to seduction in tiered silk dresses and snug off-shoulder corsets accentuated with long cigarette holders and fishnet stockings.
ACCESSORIES: Long pearl cluster earrings, crocheted berets and ballerina flats, corsage brooches, silk hand gloves.
COLOUR STORY: Gleaming whites, rich creams and pale pinks moved to more passionate wines, emerald- and jade-greens.
FLAUNT IT: Feel regal in the emerald-green halter dress at a gala dinner and charity ball; tone the lace blouse down by wearing it under a suit for a corporate yet feminine look at an important presentation.
GRAB THEM HERE: Deepika Gehani signature stores in Mumbai and New Delhi.

MANISH MALHOTRA
HOME BASE: Mumbai
SHOWCASE: Lakmé Fashion Week
COLLECTION: Known for embodying glitz and applying adornments to his designs, Manish Malhotra consciously moved away to more minimalist tones in his collection titled 'Freedom', with Sufism as the key inspiration. He used lace and crochet lavishly throughout the collection, with embellishments in crochet appliqués and black bead work. The long kurta made a comeback, worn with net churidars. Silhouettes were layered for saris, as well as for the long, flared skirts. A stunning ensemble was the white pin-tucked jacket worn over an ebony metal-embellished corset and cigarette pants.
COLOUR STORY: The collection was predominantly ebony and ivory with a single halter in cobalt.
ACCESSORIES: Chunky woven silver kadas, big white and black striped wooden bracelets, crocheted ballerina flats and black and white leather clutches.
FLAUNT IT: Put on the pretty ivory dress with a tie-up for the derby; show off that toned body in the white net and crocheted sari at a plush cocktail reception.
GRAB THEM HERE: Aza in Mumbai.

NANDITA MAHTANI
HOME BASE: Mumbai
SHOWCASE: Lakmé Fashion Week
COLLECTION: A resortwear line with a very plush St. Tropez feel to it. From breezy togas for the day to luxurious silk minis for the night, this collection was big on the dress. Beachwear included bikinis paired with mirror-work gypsy skirts and sheer tunics. High waistlines were conspicuous, and last year's strong empire line made a reappearance on the ramp. Halter tops, wrap dresses with plunging necklines and Nandita Mahtani's trademark kurtis with gold and silver embellishments were creations for glamorous evenings.
COLOUR STORY: The collection began with vibrant tones and psychedelic prints, moving on to a more solid shade card of black, white and nude.
ACCESSORIES: Mother-of-pearl disc earrings, ultra-long beaded necklaces, Jackie O style big, dark sunglasses.
FLAUNT IT: Sport the bikini with the gypsy skirt at an exotic beach resort; slip into the chikan dress for a luncheon and shopping spree with girlfriends.
GRAB THEM HERE: Ananya in Mumbai and London.

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