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Spice and Succulence
Text by Nupur Mahajan Sinh
Published: Volume 14, Issue 2, March-April, 2006

After years of dodging the cuisine, NUPUR MAHAJAN SINH finally submitted to the flavours of Vietnam at Bangalore's Blue Ginger and came back, a confirmed convert

Housed at the historic Taj West End, a century-old clubhouse converted into a luxury property, Blue Ginger, with its distinction of being the country's first Vietnamese restaurant is the big draw in Bangalore, boasting a near pilgrimage status.
It was our last meal at the property and I was not overtly keen. But fatigue, compounded by the body's declaration of demanded languor, ensured we walked out of our cottage across the distance to this blue hue. Foot-tapping music and at the entrance, a burgeoning crowd? I was miffed. Blue Bar, a little drinking, dancing, networking haven at the foot of Blue Ginger, has been voted Bangalore's favourite after hours destination and being a Friday it was living up to its name! We chose to ignore the temptation and walked on ahead. We were on mission Vietnam.
The dim lights found favour, as did the open pagoda-style façade, the ample greens and the water body. Thumbs up to ambience. I was yet taking it in when a petite girl in traditional Vietnamese garb ushered us in. She was almost right out of 'Good morning Vietnam', the '70s Robbie Williams' film. As I stared at her unabashedly, she was twittering away, 'Is this your first meal?'
We were served two cane baskets, each with tapioca and prawn crackers, almost immediately. The special Vietnamese chilli sauce is a good accompaniment; we took the tip from the rather loud table of four seated next to us, where one brash, know-it-all was demanding his usual chilli fix, which he claimed he always got each time he dined at Blue Ginger, which (he added rather haughtily) was twice a week!
My delusions were already wearing off. Vietnam had somehow conjured up images of war, strife and hunger. Food and Vietnam, and that too a gourmandising experience, just hadn't seemed to go together. But that was history.
If the novel platters endear diners to Blue Ginger, it is also the restaurant that contributes to the overall feel-good experience. Maybe the congenial air stems from the repeat crowd - almost everyone around was a regular - apparent from their surety in ordering, in ensuring service with their preferred steward or in their familiarity and relaxed behaviour.

Both our starters were divine and the flavours synergised perfectly. Raw papaya salad - spicier, crisper, juicier than the Thai version and the chicken in Vietnamese sauces, succulent boneless pieces that exploded into a pungent yet flavoursome whole with every bite.
We, I must share with you, were playing it simple. So, red chicken gravy cooked in a clay pot and steamed rice was the main course. Rather unlike its Thai cousin: creamier, not quite as sharp, not so flavoured with lemon grass but quite delightful. The steamed rice was served in individual portions in little china bowls - a fact I appreciated, considering most of us curry eaters always waste a major portion of the rice. Somehow, a small portion of lamb shanks in a thick brown sauce also landed on the table!

Unlike most specialty cuisine restaurants where the chef abhors the power of his ladle to be questioned, at Blue Ginger, the expert Vietnamese chefs - who man the kitchen - mingle with their patrons and even customise the food. They recommend but don't consider it a sin to take recommendations. Also, if you find favour with Wan, the little Vietnamese girl, not only will she customise your ordering and get the chef to send out a sample of his signature dish (the mystery of the super lamb shanks) she will also write out recipes!
People, more familiar with the food and flavours than us, were opting for the signature Vietnamese spring rolls - I would have wanted to try them just for the experience. The rolling of the sticky rice with chicken or prawn, then wrapping it in a leaf, lifting the roll with chopsticks, dipping it in the soup and wolfing it down. For that, I'll be back!

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