Opulent palace hotels lovingly restored to the last mosaic, a homespun culture that raises ‘service with a smile’ to an almost unreal dimension, temple ruins that stand proudly upright defying the onslaught of centuries. UDAIPUR owes much of its charm to this very carefully preserved passage of royal history, discovers Mala Vaishnav

The land of kings, overflowing with its bounty of legendary glory, tales of valour and treasure chests of antique arts, has just added another nugget to its heritage – Udaipur was the chosen locale for Bollywood beauty, Raveena Tandon’s wedding! Locals proudly accompany us to the floating isle of Jagmandir where specially flown in goggle-eyed baaratis were showered with rosebuds and led to a colonnaded pavilion in the erstwhile pleasure palace on Lake Pichola. Wasn’t this the sanctuary where Emperor Shah Jehan sought refuge in 1623? Ah, yes, that too, smiles the guide. The more impressive island, the four-acre Taj Lake Palace, an 18th century marble edifice, former summer residence of the ruling family of Mewar, lies in a majestic sprawl in the waters, lapping up more attention and curiosity than the other palace hotels that stand sentinel-style around the lakeside. Breakfasting here, watched over by trellised windows, original mosaics and vintage paintings, can be an invigorating start to the day.

Feast on an international staple of gooey pancakes with maple syrup or help yourself to a crisply done dosa. Then step into the nearest boat and head for the ancient environs of the City Palace – largest in Rajasthan – and mull over the remains of history – the triple arched gate, royal courtyard, Mor Chowk, Zenana Mahal and the like. Wander into the restored Durbar Hall of the adjoining Fateh Prakash Palace, heritage hotel of the Maharana-owned HRH (Historic Resort Hotels) Group and gape at opulent chandeliers, lavish furnishings and striking royal portraits from the early 20th century. Decline to look at pictures of a Raveena Tandon-held banquet here, before ascending the stairs to the Crystal Gallery, housing possibly the largest single private collection of crystal in the world. Crafted primarily by F & C Osler, manufacturers of cut glass luxury objects in the Victorian era, the collection, encompassing a four-poster bed, thrones, lamps, figurines, martini glasses, hookahs, even a flywhisk, was nurtured by the boy-king, Maharana Sajjan Singh, who died young. For almost a century, the collection lay untouched and unwrapped till current royal descendant, Arvind Singh Mewar, opened it to the public. Consider yourself worthy of notice if Shriji, as he is popularly addressed, invites you for drinks on the terrace of Shambhu Niwas, the family’s private residence, replete with ancestral booty and antique brocade. Chat with the 76th custodian of a dynastic legacy on convertibles and Great Danes, and proceed to dine at a rooftop table at the neighbouring crescent-shaped, Shiv Niwas Palace.

Post indulgence in imported spirits and grilled meats, you may get – as we did – a peep at some of the award-winning hotel’s suites – one, wholly done up in silver, temporary abode for the night for a bridegroom-to-be and another, actor Saif Ali Khan’s favourite, we learn, that flaunts a glass-walled jacuzzi bath facing a private verandah. Save a sunshine-filled day for a long (84 kms), winding drive to Kumbalgarh Fort, the remote 15th century hilltop bastion, a vast receptacle of temples, palaces and gardens, protected by a thick 36 km wall, next in length to the Great Wall of China, where eight horsemen can ride abreast. Drive on to the temple complex of Ranakpur, one of the holiest Jain pilgrimage centres, tucked away in the quiet valley of the Aravallis. The main four-faced Chaumukha temple, built in 1439, is surrounded by 66 subsidiary shrines and 1,444 carved pillars, no two of which are alike. Now, if only the cleaning brooms and buckets had been swept out of sight, the site would have rated a perfect 10 in polished marbled splendour.

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