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Back to the beginning
A man sits alone in an alley, seemingly oblivious to everything around him while fingering his stack of cards used to tell fortunes. Dressed in white, he sits in front of an empty shop involved in the wholesale trade of rubber and mechanical parts. The heat builds around the streets and the combined scent of pan-fresh dosai and vigorous Mumbai love songs whisks one away into the other-worldly charm of Singapore’s Little India.
Originally covered by banana, gambier and vegetable plantations, immigrants from Calcutta, Madras and Malaya came to this fertile ground in the late 19th century to find work and start a new life. Over the years, this little enclave of the Indian community became affectionately known as Little India. Spreading out from Serangoon Road, this unique network of Indian culture was never consciously designed by the government as an ethnic enclave but grew spontaneously into a swirling hub of active and colorful Indian culture.
What’s in Little India?
A popular tourist attraction because of its unique blend of Singapore’s colonial past with the vibrant livelihood and customs of India, Little India is the focal point of Singapore's Indian community. Its spice-scented streets beckon you to a treasure trove of silverware, brassware, gold and silver jewellery, saris, antiques and the latest collection of masala movies and soundtracks from Bollywood.
You know when you've arrived at this typical Indian district when lovely jasmine and chrysanthemum flowers adorn shop entrances and posters of the latest Bhangra techno party greet you on the face of every pillar. Provision shops can be found next to one another, selling the cheapest suitcases and other interesting crafts. Goldsmith shops are found next to establishments booming out the latest Bollywood tunes and selling movies at incredibly low rates. In little back streets you can find sari-sellers, fortune-tellers, Indian antique shops, Indian jewelry shops and small cafes with cooked chicken/mutton banana leaf briyanis (a Singaporean delicacy) along with fresh teh tarik, sweet tea poured from one cup to another in an acrobatic fashion to produce a delightful foamy taste.
“The food in Little India is excellent! You can’t find ask for a better selection of spices and sauces to go with steaming hot Basmati rice.’” says Tara Ang, an avid fan and patron of many South and North Indian restaurants. Cuff Road, in Little India is famous for its colorful display of spices and condiments with numerous sacks of exotic spices being grinded daily in the traditional manner and distributed around the island.
On Sundays, Little India becomes a huge cacophony of activity when hundreds of Indian workers come to Little India to shop, eat or catch up with friends. Streets are packed with people walking to and fro and the latest tunes are played from shop interiors with abandon. In the centre of the hurricane is the Mustafa centre, a huge shopping complex that sells everything from mobile phones, jewellery and clothes to cars. With a fully equipped supermarket, goldsmith, hotel and café in its premises, Mustafa centre is a treasure trove offering the widest range of merchandise available at the lowest prices. Over the years, this iconic institution of Little India has played host to millions of tourists from Asia and the Middle East and has been a hunting ground for locals seeking a good shopping bargain.
A glimpse of India
With authentic goods imported from India and other parts of Asia, shops in Little India offer handicrafts and Kashmir silk to peacock feathers and flower garlands. Glittering silk-threaded saris, brassware and Indian-designed jewellery are particularly good buys.
The spice mills along Little India also stack ready-made packets of spices for fish, meat or vegetable curries that can be easily packed into a suitcase. Bridal ornaments, colorful accessories, handcrafted bags, movie star posters and Indian carpets and bedspreads are some of the goods displayed in the many stores. Trade is brisk as visitors flock towards air conditioned restaurants and shopping malls to escape the heat of the day, while many shops offering clothes and magazines have started selling coconuts in ice for thirsty pilgrims or passers-by.
In lazy afternoons, many will sit along in cafes and drink cup after cup of tea, occasionally turning their eye at the Bollywood music video, playing for the umpteenth time on TV. Tourists to Little India brave the heat as they ride in bicycle-driven trishaws to take in the streets, taking pictures of the streets and people.
 Culture curry
Little India is not only known for it's variety of modern shops and restaurants but also for its unique cultural heritage which predates the establishment of Singapore as a nation. Built in 1881 by Bengali laborers, the Sri Veeramakalimman Temple is dedicated to Kali and is a magnificent work of art. Within the template enclaves one feels a strange sense of serenity and physical coolness as the many deities glance playfully in your direction. On holy days of Tuesdays and Fridays, the streets are busy with devotees on their way to pray and worship at the temple.
On the other hand, the Central Sikh Temple offers a prize-winning architectural design that has a 42-foot dome covered with white and gold mosaic tiles. A delight to see, this temple is visited by many Sikhs and Muslims throughout the week.
Another famous sight is The Temple of 1000 Lights, whereby a 50 foot, 300 ton Buddha statue is flanked by 1000 bulbs which lights up every time a donation is made. This magnificent monument was built in 1927 by a Thai monk.
During Deepavali, Little India is transformed into a fairyland of gaily decorated, brightly lit streets bustling with shoppers. The streets are awash with color bulbs and flowers are strewn on the earth with shopper and tourists in a mood of camaraderie.
Visit Little India
An unassuming but colorful area of wall-to-wall shops, spicy fragrances and Hindi film culture, Little India is a relief from the ultra-modern, squeaky clean and super efficient infrastructure of Singapore. Adorably rundown shops, cheerful shop owners and cute fortune-telling parrots are just some of the quirky and unique sights not to be missed in Singapore’s slice of India.
Getting there
When in Singapore, take the MRT train to the Little India train station. Get out and follow the directions. Takes only 5 minutes to get there, it’s that easy!
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