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Stella's Story
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| Stella McCartney, photographed by Mary McCartney Donald | |||||||||||||
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Published: Volume 13, Issue 1, January - February, 2005
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The maverick who's rustled up a storm in the UK - through her quirky, paradoxical outlook on design as well as a high celebrity turnout - is soon reaching Indian shores with her trademark lingerie slip-dresses, impeccably tailored mannish jackets and 'no leather' spunky accessories. Nisha Jhangiani unravels Stella McCartney's defiant and hugely successful stand on fashion In the cut-throat, competitive fashion industry of fitting sessions, nerve-wracking shows, critical reviews, model tantrums, rising/plummeting sales figures and the sheer drama associated with creating yet another gasp-worthy seasonal collection, what makes for an uber-successful designer? A vision to perceive what will be the next rage (tick), a rigid work ethic that could involve long hours, frustrating alterations and countless trial and error experiments (tick), a sense of supreme confidence in one's statement (tick) and sometimes, the right connections (triple tick). With all of the above grasped firmly in the petite palm of her hand, is it any wonder that Stella McCartney's star is rising high and mighty on the horizon. Born with a proverbial golden spoon in her mouth (as Sir Paul McCarney's daughter) naturally meant cherished morning rides on an 1100-acre Scotland estate (her current lifestyle is almost a mirror image of this idyllic childhood scenario, replete with a Georgian country house, miles of inviting greens and a spirited horse - 'Flo Jo'- to boot), but it did not deter from a surging urgency to be someone in her own right, on her own merit. Mom Linda's inherent chic style influenced Stella's career choice to a great extent. "She knew how to mix and match clothes, her style reflected her personality, she was really true to that .Her mix of Tommy Nutter (revolutionary dressmaker from London's couture style, men's tailoring district, Savile Row) bespoke suits with Vintage 40s print dresses" is a time tested mélange that presents itself in most Stella McCartney originals today. "It has been a continuous thread throughout my work; there is always a place for masculine tailoring in my collections. I like that slightly oversize, slouchy contrast that it brings with more feminine, delicate fabrics." This seemingly incongruous marriage of sensibilities probably stems from her own womanly dictates (inspired by the voluminous selections of cashmeres and chiffons in her treasure chest closet drawers and a love for "the era of Gone With The Wind") coupled with an internship at Savile Row that left its indelible mark on her cutting and finishing style. Her zippy final year collection at Central St. Martins (arguably, England's most prolific design school) in 1995 was snapped up by biggies like Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus (divas like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell walking the ramp in these creations may have helped!). Two years later, she revamped fashion house Chloe with her natty philosophy as creative director. Tom Ford obviously recognised her unique selling potential when he collaborated with her to create a lucrative partnership between Gucci and the Stella signature, "feminine and sexy, it mixes street references, lingerie, masculine tailoring it is about contrasts." A reflection of her personal everyday get-up, which includes "vintage finds from Portobello market" that could be partnered with "my white bespoke tuxedo, the 'safety blanket' item of my wardrobe," makes the lady her own best customer, an unconscious marketing strategy that has reaped mega dividends through unique channels, like "the bespoke service on the top floor of our London store, for both men and women, in order to maintain the tradition of this dying trade." Her latest offering, for Spring/Summer 2005, was touted as her strongest ever (could be seen as a more refined focus, brought about by a blissful marriage and soon-to-be-welcomed baby), a soft symphony of beach wear, linens and denims, ruched knots and rhinestone-studded stitches, bleached whites and smoky pinks - a clash of the Victorian with the sporty casual. Recommended buys - "the espadrilles and mini beaded doctor bags!" No leather please, thanks to a vociferous belief in animal rights and a strict vegetarianism policy. The latter would connect her to many an Indian mindset, as will her unusual separates. "I think they (the Indian customers) enjoy the strong attention to detail and the subtle colour palette of my clothes. I believe they will appreciate the relaxed dressing and easiness of the latest summer collection, the use of cotton voiles, linens and washed silks. I work in India with my collections sometimes; I have been there to visit the place where my embroideries are being done. I share a family link with the country; my parents used to visit a lot while I was growing up." We may not have to wait much longer before another trip is soon scheduled, especially with the opening of an ultimate brand destination (coming up at Shivsagar Estate, Worli, Mumbai), which will house Stella McCartney with other much-awaited names like Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Sergio Rossi and Juicy Couture. Until then, her fabulous frocks will just have to speak for themselves! |
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