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November-December, 2004 < Back To Article
Nine National Parks And Three Tall Towers

Published: Volume 12 Issue 5 November-December, 2004

Kuala Lumpur's bustling Chinatown was packed with tiny shops and many make-shift and mobile stalls with offerings of herbs, curios, clothes, ethnic jewellery, and even teapots from India and Myanmar. The aroma of spices and seafood wafted across the night air.
If in Paris, it is the Eiffel Tower and in New York, the Statue of Liberty, in Sarawak, it is the longhouse…almost like a small village under one roof, where different families - or a big extended one - lived in separate apartments but shared a common habitation.

Tribal artefacts and electronic gizmos…polished high-rises and quaint long houses…sprawling wetlands and commercial complexes…. Malaysia is indeed a many-hued experience. Shraddha Jahagirdar-Saxena returns from her recent tryst with the country, her mind reeling with a plethora of images

A frisson of excitement - mingled with a tinge of trepidation - shivered down my spine as I took in the tree-dotted expanse of the lush mangrove in front of me. From the vantage - albeit, very slight point of view - log steps, the ground, from which countless breathing, aerial roots peeped upwards to the bright blue sky, looked firm enough to withstand mortal weight…. But would it take mine? Guessing at my inner hesitation, my middle-aged guide, Anna, grinned and stepped down agilely, urging me to follow her. Smiling sheepishly, I did…and trod gingerly in her footsteps in quest of the much talked-about proboscis monkeys at Sarawak's famed Bako National Park. Around a curve of the verdant landscape, I got my reward - a close look at the long-nosed simians!

On terra firma in the park, it was communion with nature at its best. A vibrant green landscape, through which man-made brown trails made their way, a sandy beach lapped by silvery waters, camera-shy animals darting in and out of the foliage….

Back to the hotel, I was soon sauntering along the picturesque waterfront. A series of tiny shops lined the Sarawak River, each stocked with a variety of local fare. Seeking an authentic, colourful mask to take home, I trooped in and out of more shops than I can remember, finding myself clutching bags filled with printed tops, wooden figurines, bangles, wall hangings and miniature silverware.The next morning, I leisurely explored the Sarawak Museum in Kuching, with Anna, of course. It has a mind-boggling collection of tribal artefacts and is a permanent host to many native crafts and arts. Another must-see museum in Kuching - incidentally the capital of Sarawak - is the Cat Museum that does feline lovers proud. On the roads of Kuching (which means cat in Malay), I spotted many cats - all captured in still life. In fact, I was quite dwarfed by a huge white statue! Kuching even has a month-long cat festival for feline lovers…an event that I, a dog-lover, was rather relieved to have missed.

But, one site that I wouldn't have wanted to skip is the Sarawak Cultural Village, home to a diversity of tribes. My trip to the cultural village led me to authentic replicas of ethnic dwellings of tribes like Ibans, Bidayuh, Penan, Orang Ulu, Melanau, Malay and Chinese. Anna pointed out the longhouses unique to the area, where most of the tribes lived. Underlining their importance she said that in Paris, it is the Eiffel Tower, in New York, the Statue of Liberty and in Sarawak, it is the longhouses.

FAR AND AWAY

Some facts: The Federation of Malaysia is made up of Peninsular Malaysia and the states of Sabah and Sarawak on the island of Borneo. The country, dominantly peopled by Malays, experiences tropical climate all around the year. Though Bahasa Melayu (Malay) is the national language, English is widely spoken.
Shopping: Shops, bazaars and malls have a staggering variety of clothes, cosmetics, household and electronic appliances. While prices at malls are more or less fixed, bargaining at flea markets and local shops is taken for granted. The favourable exchange rate makes most buys relatively cheap for tourists.

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