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India Incredible…In Milan
Published: Volume 12, Issue 5 November-December, 2004
Sabya has done us proud, though he does not come out from backstage to hear the praise. Being low profile seems to be his signature statement.
On display, are Ravi Varma prints, calendars, tiffins, jhadoos and belans and ganjifas. There is also a fashion photography display showing off desi undergarments like the sheelam (Kerala's alternative to the G-string).

Le Vie Dell'Oriente, (Asia Week), a festival recently held during Milan Fashion Week, promoted Asian culture and fashion. Sujata Assomull spent a weekend in the fashion Mecca, to attend the gala opening, designer Sabyasachi's fashion show and several other exhibitions - all of which promoted India Incredible. Here, a diary of highlights

Friday, 2 a.m.

After a long wait at Alitalia's check-in counter at Mumbai's Sahar airport we are en route to Milan. Excitement is in the air; on board are India's best known ramp models including Sheetal Mallar, Nina Manuel and Fleur Xavier. All are going to take to the runway for India's chosen one - Kolkata designer, Sabyasachi. Also, there are some media people and others who are participating in exhibitions. After exchanging industry chatter, everyone dons an eye mask and catches some shut-eye. It's going to be a long weekend. On a flight from Delhi, leaving just an hour later, are Sabyasachi and his team, some more models and make-up artists, Jojo and Yatin.

Friday, 8.00 p.m.

It's been a day of shopping - after all how can you come to Milan, the shopping capital of the world and not buy something? The main shopping street, Via della Spiga, is a must-see even if it's only to have a look at Dolce and Gabbana's luxurious windows. After a quick rest, we are at the very swanky Hotel Principe di Savoia, feeling a little lost, as the room seems to be full of Thai media and the fashion fraternity. Sabyasachi is sharing his show with Thai fashion designer, Pichitra and it seems royalty has flown down from Thailand for the event. In one corner, are more familiar faces. Seen chatting are Andrea Bonardi, the secretary-general of the Indo-Italian Chamber of Commerce and Industry (they are the event organisers) Verve's London consultant, Nisha Paul, industrialist Anand Mahindra, Lakme's Anil Chopra and Marc Robinson - all looking elegant in their Indian designer wear. Anil has chosen a Narendra Kumar Ahmed, Marc's in his favourite Arjun Khanna and Nisha has opted for an embellished lace sari. After a dance presentation, it's time to eat - and no, it's not pasta but authentic Indian food, courtesy the Oberoi Hotel. There is no naan though, because we hear that there was a problem freighting the tandoor to Milan! Missing from his seat is the designer of the moment - Sabya. He has done a no-show.

Saturday, 3 p.m.

The Fiera Milano is a very imposing structure. With several shows going on at once, it is easy to get lost. I just make Sabya's show in time - and am seated next to Giuseppe Modenese, the honorary president of the National Chamber of Italian Fashion and right behind is Marc. Modenese comments, "I liked the clothes but the presentation was weak." He is not happy with the models walking down the ramp in such a carefree fashion eating bread. After the show, he even brushes away the crumbs from the ramp!

Sabya's show is very much in the same vein as that shown earlier this year, at the Lakme India Fashion Week. It's more vintage-meets-the-French-peasant-girl, only this time around, colours are even more muted. Mute-and-neutral is going to be the look of next year. Marc is happier with the Thai show - not because of the fashion but because of the models. "Look at their confidence and how they maintain themselves. Our girls need to take their profession more seriously."

Overall, it's a hit. Watching from row one is local fashionista, Valentina Pedroni Nayar and she's very impressed. "The media has really liked Sabya's work," she comments.

Sabya has done us proud, though he does not come out from backstage to hear the praise. Being low profile seems to be his signature statement.

Saturday, 6.00 p.m.

After a quick change, it's off to Loggia Del Merchanti, where all four countries taking part in Asia Week (India, Thailand, Hong Kong and Singapore) have put up exhibitions. Representing India, is Thomas Cook's 'India Incredible' stall and Design Temple's, 'India Indigenous: Works of accidental artists.' The locals seem to be enjoying these and the Thomas Cook stall is buzzing; many Milanese want to plan a holiday to India. Divya Thakur, creative director and founder of Design Temple, is on hand to explain her exhibition to all. (Luckily, she speaks a little Italian.) "These are everyday objects that we in India do not realise are works of art. The audience here is much more appreciative of design," feels Divya. On display, are Ravi Varma prints, calendars, tiffins, jhadoos and belans and ganjifas (round playing cards from Orissa). There is also a fashion photography display showing off desi undergarments like the sheelam (Kerala's alternative to the G-string).

Saturday 8.00 p.m.

Cocktails are hosted by Anuradha and Anand Mahindra for the opening of Dimensione Asia. There are more stalls and, of course, the Goa - which is what the Scorpio is being called in Italy - is on display. Checking out the car are Marc, Anil and Alan Friedman, the man behind media company, Fact Based Communications. He has come down from Tuscany. Anuradha and Anand are the perfect hosts - making sure every glass of champagne is full. Soon, everyone is in the mood to party. But, where is Sabya? It seems he is busy with buyers who have come to meet him.

Saturday, 9.00 p.m.

At the Bulgari Hotel's bar - the most chi-chi place to have a drink - we sit and chat, models Fleur and Nina join us and it's another round of black martinis. Everyone is in a good mood and of course the topic of conversation is shopping. Anil recommends some hot spots; since Lakme's technical partner is in Milan, he knows the city well. Valentina too has some useful tips. Soon, everyone wants to check out another bar - it seems the Just Cavali Café is next on the list. It is gong to be one long night.

Sunday, noon.

While shopping is on most people's minds, I still have not met Sabyasachi, so I head for his stall at Dimensione Asia. His whole team is busy, getting ready for the next day, when all the buyers are due to come. " I have a translator coming," says the designer. He seems happy with the response. "I feel I have improved." Many visitors want to buy his designs - his reaction, "No sorry, these are not for sale here, they are just samples!"

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