Mala Vaishnav follows the curving coastline of Liguria in north-west Italy to discover that the magnetic Mediterranean continues to lure Hollywood icons, international designers and lovers of romance, to its idyllic village resorts

I have just stepped into a picture postcard and my colleague is capturing the moment on film. Around me, the turquoise-hued Mediterranean emits a cool spray on the brightly painted boats bobbing near the shore while the deep ochre and burnished red facades of tall, closely built houses - a characteristic feature of Camogli - embrace each other, as if in keeping with the romantic ambience of this ancient fishing village. The perched ruins of the 12th century Castello Dragone on my left, the curve of the bay on my right and straight ahead, glass-fronted cafes, swathed by the aroma of steaming cappuccinos. Still life. For ten seconds. Then the shutter clicks and I walk out of the frame.The sounds of the sea compete with the chatter on the sidewalk and we pause at a shop window to examine an octopus-shaped pendant.

Among the seafaring traditions and tales that reach our ears is the one that explains the multicoloured structures and (for a tiny village) their soaring heights. In bygone days, when fishermen went far into the sea and their visibility was sometimes impaired by unseasonal mist and rain, the familiar, warm colours on shore showed them the way back to home and hearth.

Dinner with the affable, American-born, Angela Scipioni, director of Cenobio dei Dogi, our luxurious dwelling for the next two nights, is a palate-perfect affair. Over platters of crisp greens and parcels of pasta stuffed with wild herbs, she speaks of her years spent on the Golfo Paradiso (Italian Riviera), her Italian photographer boyfriend, the must-try local flat bread and the last time the hotel vibrated with celebrity presence - when the cast and crew of the cult American soap (and still popular on Star World) The Bold And The Beautiful, set up residence some months ago and recorded high drama on the silky stretch of sea.

Early morning and we find ourselves in celebrity territory again. Portofino, on the tip of the peninsula is where Hollywood idols, Tom Cruise and George Clooney, among others, go for summer camp, where they rent old-world villas shrouded by foliage and fern. The helicopter service that earlier helped screen icons and landed gentry descend discreetly on their doorsteps, has recently been discontinued to preserve the area's protected green zone. And as foul-breathed automobiles are banned from accelerating beyond the public car park, not only can the fortunate tourist get a glimpse of his favourite movie star but also enjoy the spectacle of a diva straddling a motorbike to reach her lush abode.

As we explore the network of paths plunging us into sanctuaries of myrtle and thyme and look down upon the salty surf flirting with cruise liners and gleaming yachts, we reach the Romanesque church of San Nicolo and a flower-filled cemetry, now a heritage monument. During the descent through shady woods and pale blossoms, we come upon a small, homegrown store, stocked with handmade lace items and the most exquisite of them all - a miniature lace umbrella that my companion picks up for her mum. Not for us, the designer dreams on display on the quay; but for the travel-weary jet-setter, pressed for time in Milan, her favourite Armani jacket or Louis Vuitton clutch is just a flagstone away.

Skirting the 'Mountain of Portofino', the giant cliff that juts out into the sea and acts as a natural border between the Golfo Paradiso and the Golgo del Tigullio, the attractions of another classic tourist haven - Santa Margherita - lure us to the wind-swept promenade where we take in the panorama of historic villas, stylish fashion stores and the 14th century refurbished monastery, one of the most important in Liguria.

And then, we are off to Rapallo, a sprawling town that flaunts its many charms along the emerald coastline; among them, a special museum that documents the history of lace-making, a cableway that 'ferries' visitors to the shining white 16th century sanctuary of the Madonna di Montallegro and the perfect 18-hole golf course, overlooked by the imposing ruins of the Abbey of Valle Christi.

Back in Camogli - the village built on three levels - we emerge from the tiny railway platform and make our way down steep steps leading to the seaside with 'focaccia' on our minds. The famed flat bread of the region, oozing with melted cheese and unique in taste, has many takers, for we just about get the last freshly baked slices on the tray. Dinner is all quietness and candlelight at Capriccio, an elegant retreat facing the magnetic Mediterranean.

The following morning, before checking out, I throw open my window to imprint in my mind, the scene before me - heaving, frothy waves washing the shore, the sentinel-like bell tower, vibrantly-hued houses and the snow-capped mountains beyond…hey, I suddenly think, this is what they call, 'a room with a view'!

Genova, often called the gate of the Mediterranean and the 2004 European capital of culture, is where the old-world and New Age cohabit comfortably

The Historic

Genova's Porto Antico (Old Port), the first Mediterranean port and the European cruise terminal, is now a leisure and cultural centre, replete with shops, cafes, water sports, small museums and an aquarium. Birthplace of Christopher Columbus, the city's famed lighthouse, 'lanterna', still continues its 'flashings'on the sea just as it has been doing, for nine centuries! Opening onto the Piazza de Ferrari, the town centre, marked by its circular fountain, is the imposing Palazzo Ducale, the headquarters of the government, flanked by a tower dating back to the Middle Ages. Not to be missed is the powerful grandeur of the cemetery at Staglieno. In a vast marble colonnaded corridor and beyond, every slab bears detailed inscriptions above which rise marvellous sculptured figures, some life-size. Here lies, besides Italian glitterati, the humble Caterina Campodonico, a peanut-seller who saved her life's earnings to be buried in this haloed spot.

The Classic

Fabrorvm, an important Genoese jewellery firm, founded by goldsmiths, Bollani and Testa, is housed in the magnificent Palazzo Imperiale. Allow the gracious Raoul Bollani to guide you through the workshop-museum where precious items embellished in gold, silver and filigree are manufactured and sold, reinforcing age-old techniques. On via del Portello, is the sumptuous Villa di Profumo, the confectionery shop that has sweetened the lives of several generations with its secret recipes and mouth-watering displays. Finollo, on via Roma, is the 104-year-old 'shirt-maker' of such illustrious luminaries as Rex Harrison and the Duke of Windsor. Current clients? They're not telling.

The Tasty

Dig into grilled bass on the rocks under a setting sun in any of the tiny cafes lining the sea or savour veal loin with pink pepper at the la-di-da 1939-opened restaurant, Zeffirino; ribbon noodles smothered with pesto sauce, accompanied with potatoes and string beans are a staple at homely cafes on via Roma; Lagaccio biscuits bought off a street deli, to dip into your cappuccino and the Val Polcevera Bianco wine that deliciously washes down rolled salami snacks are taste-worthy. Also worth a trip is Hotel Villa Pagoda, at the seaside resort of Nervi on the outskirts. The fine dining restaurant, Il Roseto, set in the spectacular surroundings of a 19th century villa, boasts a crackling chocolate dessert that spells pure nirvana, especially for choco fiends.

The Antique

Pieces of art pop out at you all through Genova - from slate doorways and church ceilings to multicoloured motifs on balconies - but for collections that make you want to stop and stare, there are museums galore. Among them, the 17th century-built Galleria di Palazzo Rosso (via Garibaldi) with free admittance on Sundays, the receptacle for baroque frescoes and canvases by Flemish painter, Anton Van Dyke and French artist, Leon Cogniet, among others; Galleria di Palazzo Spinola (Piazza Pellicceria), a typical example of a former noble residence, retaining traditional works of art, furniture and the detailed reconstruction of the original kitchen; Galleria di Palazzo Reale, an opulent 17th century palace, best known for its fairy tale-like mirrored corridor.

Far and Away

Genova can be reached by boat, by plane, by train and by road. With the sea in front and the mountains behind, the climate never borders on the extreme. Best sightseeing tour begins from Porto Antico. Special event: the week-long Genoese Boat Show every October.