Rina Dhaka earlier made it to our annual best dressed list and this time around Verve delves into the designer behind the stylish persona. Amidst the incredible hustle bustle of India Fashion Week 2004 and the comings and goings of interested buyers, she settled down to an informal tête-à-tête, discussing her past, present, future and more…

It all started around 1989, after class X. I studied in a dingy polytechnic and then interned with an export house that enabled me to meet with buyers from stores like Selfridges and Next. Then, NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology) introduced its first workshop, which honed my talent and attention to detail. 1990 was good; I started with my label in Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi. Galeries Lafayette in Paris, held a promotion for me. But it was in 1992 that I came into my own, became gutsy and started doing the skimpy stuff I love. I still remember carting suitcases full of Lycra fabrics from my trips abroad!

And today?

There is nothing a tailor or master can tell me that I don't know. I will find some way to execute an impossible cut or insert a difficult dart. My turnover may not be large, but it's under my personal control. High profits and selling throughout the year help. Besides retailing around the country, my brand is available in Selfridges (loungewear and scarves) and boutiques and shops in Dubai, Hong Kong and Palm Beach, Florida. I would like tie-ups, a store in Mumbai sounds ideal....

Your inspirations?

Antiques and vintage- I buy a lot of both. Movies. The streets - translating elements from day to day life to make them retailable. All my collections have a sense of Indianness in them; even for the 2004 Fashion Week of the Americas in Miami (where she won the 'Designers Choice Award'), my line showed prints and Lycra with Bandhej, chikan and mirror work - the kitch-mitch came together again.

India Fashion Week…?

It brings one into contact with new markets. Indian designers need that; there is a lot of talent here and an equal lack of exposure.

Finally, it boils down to?

Indian wear - always the strongest - uniformly does well. Well-styled, heavily embroidered outfits are usually best-sellers. We had a slight problem sometime ago, with an upsurge of designers from Kolkata, who stormed the scene with their beautiful garments at quarter our price. That's when I realised that the face of Indian fashion was changing. Once we restructured our product and price points, it was smooth sailing again!

Personal favourites?

Sabyasachi is fabulous, as is Namrata Joshipura - she was perfection at Fashion Week. Gucci, Helmut Lang, Nicolas Ghesquière (Balenciaga), Sophia Kokosalaki, Giambattista Valli (Ungaro). I marvel at their craftsmanship, packaging and styling. Galliano is a genius, Alexander McQueen is brilliant. I've been to their couture shows, where the energy and pulsating rhythm is so infectious.

Me, myself, my customer….

The sexy chick buys my clothes! People buy me for my individualistic take on fashion, for sensuous, close to the body wear. My strengths are wearability, comfort and fit. My weaknesses, servicing and packaging, both of which I'm working on. I know this trade very well now; I don't need to rely on anyone but myself.