More even than the artistic and intelligent use of Indian embroidery and craft, this is inspiration of the highest order, discovers Nisha Paul, our style scout in London, who meets three designers proudly flaunting their India connection

[Amanda Wakeley]

Her jewellery collection was inspired because: "I wanted to make jewellery not as precious as it’s made out to be. A new look that comprises a casual element where you could wear diamonds and denim together with more flexiblity, such as the leather and diamond thong that wraps around the neck. You can increase or decrease the length of the diamonds and its usage based on your own style and affordability." She has also designed a silver cuff with crocodile leather and a leather tennis bracelet with diamonds running through it.

Her Indian impressions: "I was in Delhi and then travelled all around the golden triangle and even though I had seen pictures of the Taj Mahal, being there was truly overwhelming. A lot of my outfits are made in Delhi from start to finish and everything is done to my exact designs and specifications. There is a tremendous amount of creative satisfaction working out of India as people are so open minded with exceptionally skilled craftsmanship. I have to exercise quality control though, to make sure that the items have a western finish."

Her sense of style: "It’s a clean modern look that is timeless and it’s style more than fashion. It’s definitely for grown women with real curves and real figures. The cut is important, in making women look great."

Her most popular items this season: "Is a full length, white, rabbit skin coat and items of corsetry, designed to armour glamorous women."

Her most favoured clients: Elizabeth Hurley, Kate Winslet, Jerry Hall, even the late princess Diana but her majesty, Queen Rainia of Jordan, has an innate sense of style and always gets it right."

Her passions: "I adore my black Labrador, Ella.I like cars and enjoy driving my Porsche and I sometimes go water skiing in Surrey."

To unwind and relax: "I like being at home listening to music, going out to the movies and spending time with friends."

New ventures: "There is a huge platform to explore. I want to see my jewellery collection evolve and am presently writing a book on wedding styles. A signature fragrance is a near enough possibility as well as a new range of shoes and bags, to complete the whole presentation."

 

[Geraldine Larkin]

Geraldine Larkin: A Thread Affair

Antique leather, flaming wall panels and intricately embroidered cushions in metallic silks with oxidised sequins, are the much-coveted accessories for chic London homes. Geraldine Larkin, textile designer and wife of cookery writer, Sunil Vijaykar, has her newest offerings at The Rug Company (124 Holland Park Avenue, London W114 UE. Tel: +44 2072295148). She has styled shimmering wall canvases and cushions that are already flying off the shelves at Maisonette (79 Chamberlain Road, London NW10. Tel: +442089648444).

Her impressions of Indian embroidery: "It’s the best in the world. From the thread work done by the Banjara tribes to rich courtly embroidery. It’s the wealth of the craft that’s prevalent in India but one has to have realistic goals, especially as it takes a lot of effort and time."

Her Indian inspiration comes from: "Traditional hand embroidery and I try to incorporate it into contemporary images and motifs." Designer Rowland Mouret has designed a dress with mirrored breast plates by Larkin, based on shisha work – but oxidised and used in an art deco style – showing her sense of mixing the modern with the traditional thread craft. She also uses the zardozi style of work and has her stuff made in Mumbai by her own company that is commissioned by international designers to work on their collections.

Her wall panel designs are: taken from natural elements and have names denoting the theme, such as, Wave, Cactus, Thistle and Rose, creating breathtaking works of art.

[Allegra Hicks]

Allegra Hicks: Queen of Kaftans

There is nothing better than finding all your shopping needs under one roof. Italian fashion designer, Allegra Hicks, wife of architect, Ashley Hicks (grandson of Lord Mountbatten) provides just that, through her much in demand, lifestyle boutique at 28 Cadogan Place, London. Her store is decorated with Victorian period features and laid out like a home, complete with drawing room, fireplace and library. She designs all her own fabrics, both for fashion and interiors and is credited with reinventing the kaftan, making it into a signature garment, ready to be worn at home or on the beach.

Your fashion line? Beachwear, which includes kaftans, shorts, blouses, bags and hats. There are slinky dresses, Indian embroidered evening blouses and tunics with crystals. For my homeware collection, there is a varied range of rugs, cushions, linens, candlestands, picture frames, jewellery, Ayurvedic bath accessories and fabrics.

Your inspiration? India is a great source but my collection is not ethnic by western standards. My style translates oriental themes, using strong organic patterns and motifs with a free range of colours. For my most recent collection, I have used the poppy flower as a pattern and coherently had it embroidered and printed on different fabrics. In Rajasthan, for my honeymoon, I was influenced by the strong colours worn by village women.

Your impressions of India? Italians and Indians are overt and similar, they love to talk about themselves and get emotional easily. I have travelled extensively in India and I can’t wait to experience Kerala.

Your influences? Christian Berard, a French designer from the ’40 and ‘50s and Poiret Paul with his extraordinary use of embroidery. Indian Moghul miniatures and the Craft Museum in Delhi, where you see extensive fabrics from all over India, with different textures.

Your Indian friends? Reena Reepjit Singh, in Delhi. We have also known Munni Kasliwal, who owns the Gem Palace jewellery store in Jaipur, for a long time. My husband, Ashley, had designed a jewellery collection with him with gold leaves, crystal and enamel which was exhibited here in London and was very successful. Vijaya Khan, wife of Suliaman Khan, is a good friend of my mother-in-law and we stayed in her brother’s beautiful haveli in Udaipur. On my last visit to Mumbai, I met Minal Modi and Bansri Shah. We have also been guests of the Rajmata of Jaipur and have shared many laughs together.

You wish to meet? The Dalai Lama, as I find him simple and inspiring in all that he does. Filmmaker, Manoj Night Shyamalan, who lives in the States. I adored his film, The Sixth Sense. For me, it was like seeing Indian philosophy and belief through a western school. The writer, Arundhati Roy, as I enjoyed her book, The God of Small Things.

Your celebrity clients? Elle McPherson, Gweyneth Paltrow, Lady Helen Taylor, Jerry Hall, Christy Turlington, Jemima Khan, Brook Shields, Laura Bailey and Princess Olga of Greece, amongst many others.