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Delhi’s Designs on Mumbai
Photograph by Sunil Cherian; Text by Shirin Mehta
PUBLISHED: Volume 12, Issue 1, First Quarter 2004
Delhi comes to Mumbai in the guise of four designers who have settled themselves in the best address in town, 7 Best Marg. Shirin Mehta helps you get familiar with the new incumbents
Four labels have quietly moved into a large, open-planned store at Colaba, in Mumbai, next to the heritage structure of the Gateway of India. Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, Kavita Bhartia and Ranna Gill, veteran designers from Delhi, are all set to feel the pulse of Mumbai. Already, a day after the opening, the first floor store is hopping with activity, as Mumbai, always game for anything new and happening, discovers capital looks. As one designer declared: "There is such a huge market here. Share this, harvest this, grow this." A quick chat with the four who are ready to roll, at 7 Best Marg.

Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna (Cue and H20)

Western line with very fresh whites, black and white combos, trousers with embroidery details, skirts with stripes, kurtis, ‘Angel’ T-shirts.

"We specialise in prêt. Designer prêt and ready-to-wear is what people need. They do not want to pay bags and bags of money for clothes. Our fourth store is opening in Delhi and we decided it was time to come to Mumbai, since our clientele had to come to Delhi to shop.

"There is no competition here, since we do completely different lines. Personality-wise, we get along well, since we are all from Delhi and have worked together before. We have had differences of opinion but now we are all starting to think the same way."

Why H20? We were looking for a short, snappy label and I liked Aqua but it was taken by Armani. So, we basically looked at other names for water.

Muse? We have no muse. We are designing for women who want to look good. The younger generation of working women who want to be elegant rather than garish.

Clientele? Radhika Channa, Nandita Mahtani.

Inspiration? We just want to make wearable clothes. Clothes that are minimalistic, yet make a statement. There has to be an element of fun in each garment — this season’s clothes can be real conversation starters.

Internationally? We sell to international brands like Zara and Selfridges, under our own label and also make for Zara, Emporio Armani and Banana Republic.

Mumbai, Delhi? We design differently for Delhi and Mumbai. Our Delhi collection includes overcoats and jackets for the season while Mumbai loves our linen line.

Ranna Gill (RIA and RANNA)

Saris with a twist, cholis that clash, salwars with a difference. Prêt line: RIA. Couture: RANNA.

"My look is very young, even the couture clothing. Sexy, yet as a designer, I am a classicist. I love wearing sarongs, the kibaya, kimono, wraps — I am very drawn to costume. My job as a designer is to make it cutting edge and present it in a very sexy, wearable way. I do not design old, mummy saris — they are patch worked with leather, embellished with feathers, the traditional kantha craft is made modern. We try to make the sari fresh, young, sensual. Even if I am showing flesh, I want to show it aesthetically. In-your-face, out-there, is just not cool anymore. I am a woman and I respect another woman’s body."

Muse? I like real women with a lot of character. Imperfect, to me, is quite beautiful. I love a woman tussling with a weight issue, a time issue, for me, real is attractive. My best friend has the longest nose but she makes it work for her — she is beautiful.

Inspiration? I love costumes, textiles, books, the smell of a bookshop, folk art, tribal motifs, nature. I become like a sponge when I travel. I am inspired by traditional kantha craft, the tree of life motif, William Morris wallpaper from

the ’40s, the Alhambra print and Moghul prints — all of which find their way on my saris.

Mumbai, Delhi? Mumbai is more experimental, more playful. Delhi likes more classical things. Mumbai wants the Jamewar but on metallic stretch fabric while Delhi wants an heirloom. In Delhi, you can go crazy with colour while Mumbai likes its whites and blacks. Delhi is very politically correct, in Mumbai people say what they think.

Kavita Bhartia (Kavita Bhartia and Ogaan)

Layered skirts in varying textures, contrasting kurti tops, saris in unusual combinations of colours and textures.

"It’s a happy look. I design clothes to make you feel good, look good. The innovation just does not stop at our workshop.

We keep trying and testing and having fun."

Muse? I design for the young, trendy woman who wants to experiment. Women like Manisha Koirala or Preity Zinta.

Inspiration? India is all about colour. We love using colourful fabric, working with tie and dye….

Mumbai, Delhi? Delhi is changing but Mumbai is trendier. Women are very evolved in Mumbai. They have the world at their feet and are willing to try experimental clothes. We do more bustiers for Mumbai, make more Lycra bodies.

Internationally? We are on the way!

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