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Assorted
Text by Shirin Salwan and Photographs by Gulshan Sachdeva
Published: Volume 22, Issue 1, January, 2014
A detailed analysis of other noteworthy collections that evoked mixed emotions and almost missed the mark

GAURI AND NANIKA
After having been absent for a couple of seasons, the talented designer-sisters were back doing what they do best--a range of ultra-feminine clothing for the contemporary woman. The collection was a mix of bold dresses with dramatic drapes, flowing jumpsuits, playsuits and their signature floor length gowns. Fabrics like chiffon, crepe de chine, organza and micro-crepe were used to add to the luxe-factor.

HIGH POINTS: THE SOFT SUMMERY HUES OF LEMON, PEACH AND TANGERINE.

SCOPE: SHOWCASING SOME MORE SEPARATES PERHAPS.

PIA PAURO
Yet another safari-inspired resort collection by the designer that was heavy on surface ornamentation and print. Staying true to the tribal theme, Pia dabbled in tassels, feathers, bead-work and appliqué in a multitude of silhouettes that were playful and fun.

HIGH POINTS: COVETABLE SWIM-WEAR; LOVELY BEACH DRESSES; KNEE-HIGH GLADIATORS--A PERFECT VACATION WARDROBE.

SCOPE: HOW ABOUT SOME MORE SEPARATES THAN JUST DRESSES; MAYBE INTRODUCING SOME NEUTRALS TO BREAK ALL THE EMBROIDERY AND TEXTURE.

ANEETH ARORA
Soft, breezy and uber-comfortable was the overall vibe of the ensembles. Perfect offerings for a hot summer day. What could well be a negligée was teamed with jackets, boy shorts, dungarees and pyjamas. Lace, floral motifs and checks were employed to create a retro appeal to the clothes./p>

HIGH POINTS: THE LIGHTNESS AND SUMMERY FEEL OF THE WHOLE COLLECTION; THE USE OF LAYERING WITH CONSTRAINT; SUBTLE ACCESSORIES.

SCOPE: SHAKE IT UP AND MOVE BEYOND THE HOBO-LIKE SLOUCHINESS; INTRODUCE NEWER FABRICS, MORE FEMININE SILHOUETTES AND FRESHER TECHNIQUES.

ASHISH N SONI
Old-world Hollywood glamour was brought to life by the designer’s collection aptly titled ‘La Dolce Vita’. Crisp white shirts, swirling circled skirts, peplum jacket-suits and evening gowns highlighted the fit and flare silhouette. The tuxedos with structured tailoring were noteworthy.

HIGH POINTS: THE OVERSIZED LEG-OF-MUTTON SLEEVED JACKET, IMPECCABLE FITTING; MOULDED SATIN DRESSES-- THE OVERALL PRESENTATION WAS ON MARK.

SCOPE: A LACK OF ASHISH’S SIGNATURE; THE INSPIRATION NEEDED REINTERPRETATION WITH HIS OWN TOUCH; THE COLLECTION FELT MORE AUTUMN/WINTER THAN SPRING/ SUMMER.

PALLAVI MOHAN
It was delightful to see a refreshingly new aesthetic the designer brought to the forefront with her latest collection. Comprehensive and beautifully executed, she played with techniques like ombré dyeing, patch-work, bead embroidery, cable knits, tape work and raw edges with utmost restraint to create the desired impact. Not going overboard, she stuck to the colour palette throughout and kept it simple in terms of styling and layering.

HIGH POINTS: THE COLOUR STORY ALONG WITH THE FABRICS WERE A PERFECT BLEND; BE IT THE BILLOWY MAXI DRESSES OR THE LAYERED TUNICS; THE BALANCE WAS JUST ABOUT RIGHT.

SCOPE: STICK TO THIS INDIVIDUALISTIC STYLE AND BUILD ON IT WITH NEWER SHAPES AND FRESHER TECHNIQUES.

AM:PM BY ANKUR AND PRIYANKA MODI
Sharp tailored pieces, which are the designer duo’s forte, strutted down the runway with deconstructed motifs resembling electrical circuit drawings on a solid colour palette. The garments had a certain urban minimalism to them with sculpted dress forms being rampant in the collection.

HIGH POINTS: THE SIMPLE YET IMPACTFUL CONSTRUCTION THAT IS TECHNICALLY SOUND; AN OFFERING OF INTELLIGENT SEPARATES.

SCOPE: WE LOVE THIS NEW AESTHETIC THE DESIGNERS HAVE MOVED ON TO SINCE THE LAST SEASON. HOWEVER, WE SUGGEST TRYING NOT TO PLAY IT TOO SAFE AND EXPERIMENTING IN THE SAME ZONE TO AVOID LOOKING REPETITIVE-PERHAPS SOME PLACEMENT PRINTS, PATTERN MANIPULATIONS OR INTERPLAY OF FABRICS.

MASABA
No one has more fun with prints than this girl. We love how she takes the most uncanny inspirations and brings them to life with experimental shapes. This time it was the ‘bodysuit sari’ amongst other unusal silhouettes such as a tennis skirt, track pants, pantsuits, printed dresses with sheer hemlines, cropped saris with ankle length pants and so on.

HIGH POINTS: THE SPORTY-BOHO SPIRIT OF THE OUTFITS; A PLETHORA OF FORM, PRINT AND COLOUR.

SCOPE: TOO CLUTTERED AND OTT AT TIMES; BIT TOO HEAVY ON THE EYES. DE-CLUTTER AND RESIST THE URGE TO SHOW TOO MUCH TOGETHER.

NACHIKET BARVE
Nachiket returned with his signature romanticising of fabrics with appliqué, thread-work and dyeing techniques that are subtle yet sensuous. Soft hues of ivory, silver grey, beige, flesh, sandstone and old rose were sculpted with delicate fabrics like silk, chiffon, crepe, georgette organza and dupion.

HIGH POINTS: THE INTRICACY OF SURFACE ORNAMENTATION TECHNIQUES LIKE FINE BULLION EMBROIDERY, A NEW METHOD OF WRAP DYEING, PLEATING DONE TO MIMIC TEXTURES OF SEDIMENTARY ROCKS, PAINSTAKINGLY DONE APPLIQUÉ MOTIFS; A VERY RAIL-FRIENDLY OFFERING OF SEPARATES.

SCOPE: EXPLORATION OF NEWER SILHOUETTES

JENJUM GADI
A rather peculiar inspiration, Jenjum’s insects found their way onto garments in the form of magnified screen prints, bead-work embroidery as well as abstract motifs. Fluid and sheer fabrics like organza, satin and flat chiffon were juxtaposed with sporty silhouettes. Jenjum’s palette was primarily monochrome with reds and blues to break the monotony.

HIGH POINTS: BREEZY MAXIS, PRINTED JACKETS; NET INSERTS; SUBTLE ACCESSORIES.

SCOPE: SOME DRAPES CAME ACROSS AS ILL-FITTED RATHER THAN SLOUCHY. THE SARI FOR EXAMPLE SEEMED LIKE AD HOC FITTING RATHER THAN A STYLE ELEMENT.

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